Rafting the Mae Tang can be a hair raising experience but it’s certain to be one of the most exciting things you do in Thailand.

It’s been raining cats and Buddhas for the past three days, but today the sun is already beating down on us and it’s only 10am. But it isn’t enough sun to dry out the severe mud ruts that this old Landrover is busy grinding its way through as we patiently negotiate our way up the Mae Tang river. To our left the gorge falls away steeply, carpeted in lush jungle, and at the bottom we catch glimpse of a ferocious river that tumbles out of the mountains of Northern Thailand.

“Are you sure you want to do this?” my companion asks sceptically.

“Dunno, but the jungle up here sure is pretty” I meekly respond, trying to change the topic. It took me half a day to persuade her to come whitewater rafting and then the floods came down from the mountains and left Chiang Mai under a foot of water. But our guide, Jason, assured us that he never rafts an angry river and that our patience would pay off. The waters of Typhoon Damrey are now down in the valley he explains and the river has dropped to a safe level. To prove his point, we stopped at one point nearer the river and we inspected the rocks.

“See this boulder here” he points out, “when this is above the water level, it’s safe to raft this river”. He’s internationally trained in swift water rescue so we take his word for it. But the sight of the whitewater and sheer force of the grade five rapid he showed off to us has left butterflies in my stomach.

The awesome force of the recent floods have left an obvious calling card, and the banks are littered with forest debris and strewn with a destructive muddy mess several meters higher than the present level. It’s difficult to image a river more lively than this but clearly we are seeing it at in a tamer mood.

Up at the camp the river is more relaxed, and even after the traumatic preview we have not regrets about signing up for this adventure. Sop Kai is a charming little village situated on a flat part of the river, way up this snaking valley, and all around us the jungle sings with a mid morning chorus of nature as the water glistens and the sleepy community goes about its rural business.

We’re offered some snacks and fresh mountain coffee in the cool riverside bungalow of Siam River Adventures, and left to savour the wonderful experience of being up here in the mountains. This village is far away from the tourist traps and crowded temples. It’s all part of the day’s experience, Jason promised us. I’m tempted to ask if we can skip the rafting and simply go hiking up the banks of the river, it’s so lovely here. But that would be chickening out.

Before long he has us all kitted out and launches into a serious safety briefing and impromptu tutorial on how to react to an unruly raft. “Forward paddle! Back paddle! Lean left! Right! Get down!” he yells as we practice in the eddies of this impatient river. When it’s all over he offers us a reassuring; “ don’t worry, the guides will control the craft, just follow orders and you’ll be alright.” Before the safety briefing began he made a point of checking the swift water rescue gear and dispatching his staff to the most difficult rapids, so that they are ready to throw rescue ropes. He also points out that his is the only company on this river that has safety kayakers accompanying the raft to help rescue ‘floaters’, as he calls them. We feel just a little better now.

And, with little time to ponder what we are about to embark on, the guides push us into the main current and the camp disappears immediately as gravity tugs violently at us. That initial experience of sudden unstoppable momentum is perhaps the most impressionable memory as your adrenalin gets hold of your heart. You have little chance to concentrate on anything other than the rapidly approaching water immediately in front of your craft. It’s too late to turn back now but one certain thought that screams at your sense of logic is; ‘Oh my god, what have I got myself into!’

Within minutes we hit the first major rapids. Thunderous water sound a warning, my heart rate increases even more, and then we are on top of it. “Whooooaaah” we scream as the raft plunges headlong into the grade four rapid. The acceleration is scary, and with an exhilarating rush we splash through the bottom as our raft buckles and is thrown around. A sheer adrenalin high turns to relief as we coast out the other side and enjoy a breather on a tamer stretch.

But not for long, the gradient steepens again, we bumble over some smaller rapids and continue forward, without any respite or braking.

“OK, everybody ready” our guide shouts. “lean left! Left, left, left ” he yells desperately as we all try to avoid our craft being sucked into the wrong side of an even larger rapid. “Backpaddle!” He yells even louder, as he tries to steer the craft away from the insistent draft. A big pile of debris has split the rapid, the right side definitely looks dangerous. Everything happens quickly, we’re panicking now, but instinct takes over, water pours into the right side, miraculously we narrowly avoid the tough route and with one final strong paddle from the guide we plunge down the correct chute. Chiang Mai for adventurers

My god, this is pretty stressful, I think to myself as we emerge safely below. There is spontaneously laughter and cheering, relief turns fear into enjoyment, and in a nervous sort of way I find myself starting to really enjoy this.

“Well done” the guide tells us calmly, you have passed the tough first test, those were some of the toughest, it gets easier from here” he reassures us. And he’s true to his word. Just as I was beginning to loathe any more of this, we tumble down a series of fun small rapids that prove to us that rafting this river is exciting and enjoyable.

After 20 more minutes of tamer rapids, we all – as a team – seem to have the hang of this and soon we pull up into an eddy where we are reunited with the other rafts. “Time for a breather” our guide shouts, and we all loosen our protective helmets and life jackets. The road is just above us and a train of elephants trundle by with several tourists on board. Now that’s a far more sensible way to travel, I think to myself.

Before long we set out again for the most lively stretch of the river and unbeknown to us, a nasty surprise lies ahead. We hit the next rapid, a grade five with a name that sounds like something out of a violent Playstation game. This one is practically a small waterfall and as we hit the bottom the raft flips and into the water we all go. Pandemonium strikes. I recall seeing the swift water rescue guard standing on a nearby rock with safety rope ready but chaos reigns as I hold my breath and try, in a panic, to remember the safety advice. The water is keeping me under but I hold my breath and allow the water to ‘wash me out’ of the rapid. Sure enough I find myself downstream, surfacing and trying to gain control as the powerful river spirits me away. Luckily there are no further rapids and I manage to steer myself into an eddy. Fortunately everyone has recovered and we soon regroup and rescue the rafts. Chiang Mai outdoor activities

And so the day continues as we tackle one rapid after the other, interspersed with relaxing recoveries along tamer stretches of the river from where we can admire the wonderful forested gorge around us. A few more times we manage some hair raising escapes and the adrenalin rushes are addictive, leaving us nervously wishing for more. We have overcome our fears and eventually we approach the bottom of the stretch.

“Yeah! Bring it on baby” yells one of the people in our group and each time we plunge into another rapid the girls let out a loathing scream that soon turns to laughter. Even when it’s all over and we coast into the disembarkment camp we are all grinning from ear to ear, with scarcely any regret for signing up for the day’s adventure.

There’s only one task left to do, and that is to pose as a team in front of the rafts, paddles raised in victory – for we have tamed the mighty Mae Tang river.

One of the most popular activities for many visitors to Northern Thailand is a trek to one of the many hill tribe villages. Photos of these minority groups are regularly splashed all over tourist brochures and internet sites. Tour groups are a daily feature in some of the villages as visitors snoop around, buy a few handicrafts, take some photos and then leave.

Most of the hill tribes are subsistence farmers and have been marginalised by the Thai government. The government refuses to recognise their existence by providing ID cards or formal rights. The tourists who enter the villages rarely understand the problems they face and the harsh conditions forced upon them.

There are many different types of hill tribes in this region, and each has their own distinct language, dress and culture. The Akha tribe are considered to be the poorest group and as a result, they receive particular attention from missionaries, charity workers and anthropologists. They are known to the Thais as Egor, a derogatory name, and have one of the lowest status levels in the country.

They originated from Tibet over a century ago before migrating to Burma, Laos and Thailand, along with other hill tribes. The military regime in Burma has continually persecuted them over the last couple of decades, causing many of them to flee across the border into Thailand as refugees. Although some Akhas have lived here since childhood, they are still stateless and routinely exploited by drug lords and corrupt officials.

The Akhas use a language known as Lolo–Burmese however it has never been written down so there is no physically documented evidence of their history. They have relied upon information being passed by mouth from generation to generation. Today, civil rights activists have created a new system making it possible for their language to be written down.

The number of Akhas currently living in Thailand is thought to be over 50,000, with the majority of them located in villages in Chiang Rai province. Their villages are often in remote spots, making it difficult for them to travel, and can sometimes only be reached by treacherous dirt trails. They survive by subsistence farming, growing vegetables and rice on the sides of the mountains, and raising chickens and pigs.

The men can usually be found working in nearby rice and tobacco fields, starting first thing in the morning and continuing until sunset. They are paid on average 100 baht per day, which is well below the national minimum wage. Some of the villages still don’t have running water, meaning regular trips to the well to fill up large receptacles. A few villages have benefited from connections to mains electricity, which has drastically improved their living standards. Their simple houses are constructed from bamboo and grass and accommodate the entire family. Guide to Thai culture

The presence of missionary groups has introduced other problems of a religious nature. The assistance of these groups is often tied to conditions that they try to impose on the Akhas. Although some of them have been converted to Christianity, the methods of the missionaries have been questioned and it remains a controversial subject.

The missionaries say that they are able to help them achieve a better quality of life, but certain practises such as taking children out of their homes creates many doubters. The Akha religion is linked with animism, and they believe in a world filled with spirits, both good and bad. There is a constant erosion of their unique and interesting culture brought about by the actions of certain Christian groups.

Despite not having ID cards, some of the younger women have left their villages in search of work in the cities. Their lowly status and lack of paperwork has meant they have had to resort to prostitution or poorly paid massage jobs. Even worse, a number of the men are recruited by drug barons for smuggling across the Burmese border. A government crackdown on drugs in 2003 left more than 2,000 people dead, and many of them were thought to be Akha. Hill tribes of Thailand

The future of this hill tribe is uncertain as tourist numbers increase and the Thai authorities refuse to grant them citizenship. It’s hard to see how they can retain their unique culture with such a steady flow of voyeurs constantly knocking on their doors.

If you went looking for the steepest road in Thailand you probably need venture no further than 40kms east of Chiang Mai to the small eco-tourism village of Mae Kampong, located on the side of the Doi Mon Larn range. While most visitors to Chiang Mai instinctively head for the obvious massif of Doi Pui to the west, there is an equally arresting range across the broad valley and it’s well worth a day trip or overnight stay. Hotsprings, an enormous cave, quaint mountain hideaway lodges and some lofty waterfalls are just some of the attractions in this area to the east of Chiang Mai.

Mae Kampong village is a favourite with Thailand’s prime minister and since his visit in 2003 the area has steadily been increasing in popularity as a Northern Thailand tourist destination. But perhaps it’s biggest attraction is that it offers an uncrowded glimpse into the quiet life of a prospering mountain village, free of tourist buses, must-see temples or popular national parks. Here you can feel part of the village, making use of the homestays and wandering among this elongated village that has squashed itself into a steep sided lush valley. Day trips from Chiang Mai

Although the hills to the east of Chiang Mai appear dry and featureless, the road into the mountains soon climbs into a perennial forest and meanders alongside a gently tumbling stream. First signs that you are in a nature conservation area is the park headquarters of the Mae Takrai National Park, just beyond the village of Huay Kaew. With songkran having just passed, mischievous children were still lining the road with buckets of water. Despite the April heat, I discovered the climate here is distinctinctly cooler and the vegetation quite different from the dry dusty Ping river valley below. Before we’ve even reached Mae Kompong we are compelled to stop several times; first at the lovely Tharntong lodge – a perfect overnight escape from Chiang Mai with its pretty location beside a stream and teak forest; and a little further up the road we witnessed first hand the success of the Royal Project’s Teen Tok community which has prospered through the cultivation of coffee, dragon fruit, flowers and vegetables.

Khun Tim, one of the rangers at Teen Tok, insists we should make a diversion to Mae Lai waterfall – the first of three you can see in the area – and so we follow a side road for three kilometers through the village of Pang Soong. The reason he has directed us here is not entirely the waterfall, but an unusual local crop for which the area is famous: Miang. This chewable leaf is actually a tea variety which has been cultivated here for over a century and is now enjoying a resurgence thanks to the Mae Kompong’s steady rise in prominence. Khun Tim explains the traditional method of harvesting and preparing the miang, demonstrating the nimble thumb and second finger action of snatching a clump of leaves from the branches then quickly binding it with a strip of bamboo bark, before tossing into a wicker basket. What follows is a complicated processing in which the bound leaves are steamed in earthern pots, carefully stacked under stones and submerged in water to ferment for 30 days. After all this effort you would expect a delicacy, but in fact the raw miang is bitter and sappy, and unless you have developed a local ‘taste’ for it, a sweet syrup dip is suggested to avoid insulting the locals with any unsavoury reactions! None-the-less the folk in these parts are quite addicted to chewing miang, but it can also be brewed as a beverage.

With my mouth still reeling from the bitterness we went looking for the waterfall and discovered a pretty pool and water plunge. What really catches your attention though is the unusual Mae Lai Rock Chedi – which took 52 villagers three years to build using a patient method of each person setting aside their respective Buddhist holy day (week day of birth) to collect rocks and pebble-stones in order to complete the nine-storey structure.

The village of Mae Kampong itself is located 10kms from Huay Kaew village, and comprises a pretty collection of teak houses raised on stilts either side of lovely stream. There is a visitors’ centre at the village entrance and the locals, in keeping with the ‘one tambon one product’ campaign, produce herbal pillows and variety of creative uses for their miang, including a spicy miang salad. You won’t find any souvenir shops or tourist services here, which is part of its appeal, and its possible to find a a handful of homestays and simple noodle shops. The best place to stay however is John’s Place, a gorgeous log cabin with lovely large deck that overlooks the surrounding canopy. Owned by John Bell and his wife Mam, the lodge wouldn’t look out of place in the American Rockies and includes lovely teak floors, fluffy carpets, a stone fireplace and eclectic mix of Thai art. John, a native of Newcastle in England, has done much to improve the lot of the villages, supporting the school and promoting the the area with brochures. His lodge is a perfect hideaway, complete with a tree house and the ever-present gurgling sound of the stream that bisects his property.

Back in the village we come across a delightful wooden temple, more reminiscent of an old American prairies church than the gilded places of worship typically found in Thailand. The clapboard walls and faded filigree give it a lovely antique character.

Two kilometres beyond the village is the Mae Kampong waterfall, from where a view point offers a good perspective of the village. Although the pretty base of this multi-tiered waterfall looks low-key, there is an exhausting trek up several flights of steep stairs to each of the successive four lofty wisps of water. Until now you might be wondering where those steep roads are, hold your breath and check your brakes. The sealed road that continues up and over the crest of the 1600m Doi Mon Larn was only recently completed and now links the area with Lampang province and the lovely Jae Sorn National Park. It is a rollercoaster ride of switchbacks and ascents/descents, demanding a strong vehicle and careful driving which leaves your brakes reeking of burnt carbon. But the views are exceptional, particularly when you crest the summit and chance upon the manifold range of hills that make up Northeastern Lampang province. Thankfully the road is seldom used and can even be closed in the rainy season. In December the Sakura ‘cherry blossoms’ splash the area with a pink and white veneer and if you keep your eyes peeled you can spot the ‘dok seow’, a native orchid which blends in with the sakura and is actually eaten, deep-fried, by the locals.

As you descend into bamboo forest you pass through the village of Pa Miang, and it’s worth the effort of driving the additional 45 minutes from Mae Kampong to reach Jae Sorn National park, which boasts delightful waterfalls and a bubbling stream. The park entrance from this direction is not marked in English so be sure to bear left at the first main intersection. Not-surprisingly, the park is a popular playground for the residents of Lampang and can get crowded on weekends with loads of food vendors, picknicking families, and a busy car park. When you find your way to the waterfall you understand why, for the river not only plunges over four levels – ranging in height from 30 to 50 feet – but also presents a delightful mile long stream for kids and adults alike to frolick in and cool off. In addition to the waterfall there are nature trails and a large grassy picnicking area, as well as a camping ground and ablution blocks.

There are two additional attraction along this route, which we had left for the return journey and they are found much closer to Chiang Mai. Mae On cave is just off the main road east of San Khampaeng and clearly marked, but the entrance itself lies inconspicuously among a stoney hillside, leaving you to wonder how on earth someone every found it (notwithstanding the pun!). Today the entrance is reached by an exhausting 187 step, naga-lined, staircase which is rather frustrating once you realise that you then have to descend 133 steps inside to reach the main chamber of the this cavernous illuminated interior. It occupies three storeys so that you experience mild vertigo as the stairs zigzag down the side of this enormous cavity. At its base are seated and reclining Buddhas as well as a magnificent chedi-like white calcified staligmite. Northern Thailand tourist highlights

Nearby is the Samkhaempeng hotsprings, signposted from the main road a few kilometres northeast down a pretty country road. There are two resorts here and a landscaped park with several geysers, a pretty stream, heated pool and hot bathes.

Although the eastern districts of Chiang Mai valley get neglected by visitors they still offer a refreshing alternatives, with more than enough to interest visitors keen to escape the city and tourists for a night. On the way home you may want to stop in the famous umbrella village of Borsang for a little souvenir shopping, but that’s another story.

Like a big cosy duvet, mist shrouds the valley far below us. Away in the distance, a crowing cockerel gets the Hmong villagers out of bed, but the only other sound is the crunch of our bike tyres on the gravel track. With a soft click of gears, our group tackles a small incline but our attention is still riveted on the sweeping vista of forest immediately below us

Northern Thailand is a mountain bikers’ paradise. The prospect of spending a week in the saddle through some of Thailand’s most mountainous terrain left me with mixed feelings of exhilaration and exhaustion. Luckily, the Spice Roads’ tour is cleverly designed to take place over a leisurely nine days and somehow avoids the steep climbs but rewards the cyclist with some breathtaking back road routes between Chiang Mai and the Golden Triangle. Over the following week, we would meander through fruit orchards and careen down through lush rainforest. We splashed through delightful streams and crawled through caves, posed in front of unusual Shan temples and rode elephants. And we trekked to a Lahu village before finally coming upon on the escarpment of a wild frontier where the Shan State hills stretched far into the distance. But I’m getting a little ahead of myself here.

To the west of Chiang Mai loom the imposing Doi Pui and Suithep peaks, which act as a spiritual guardian for the city. They also provide a good indication of what the North has to offer mountain bikers and adventurers. And so we found ourselves way above the bustling tourist city, among the mist of the mountains and crisp morning chill. From Phuping Palace, near the summit, our group got to know each other as we gently climbed up through the pine trees heading for Baan Chiang Khian – a Hmong Village that enjoys unbeatable views of the Ping valley below. From here, the fun starts with a thrilling 20-kilometre off-road descent through the national park. There are a number of ‘fire’ roads that criss-cross this mountain, used regularly by the Hmong, and the one we take turns out to be a hair-raising experience – quite technical at times but suitable for anyone familiar with a mountain bike. The safety briefing at the start wasn’t overstated and eventually, buzzing with adrenalin, we emerge at the Huay Tong Tao reservoir in the valley. Not bad for a warm up!

Day two begins not on bikes but on a boat, as we are ferried to the far corner of the Mae Kuang reservoir north of Chiang Mai, and I’m intrigued by the prospect of being deposited on a far bank that no cars or motorbikes can reach. Today, we are told by our guide Woody, is mainly single track through forest as we head towards Chiang Dao. Adventure activities in Chiang Mai

“Mai pen rai, every year I get lost this part,” Woody mischievously explains as we plunge deeper into the sub-tropical growth, following tracks that are sometimes barely noticeable. This charade goes on for a couple of hours and we don’t care – riding a trail that hasn’t been used in ages adds to the sense of adventure. Eventually we pop out on to an asphalt road and follow it to Buatong waterfall, where lunch is waiting for us hungry cyclists. Northern Thailand is covered in gorgeous waterfalls but this particular one emerges from a spring and is covered in an unusual limestone deposit. From here, we hit the road, onwards to Mae Ngat dam before thankfully arriving at the Royal Ping Resort.

Every trip has its clowns, and the touring group you’re with always adds to the memory. For example, we have along with us a group of ever-polite Singaporeans who are so ridiculously kitted out that even NASA would be overwhelmed. They have shown up with every imaginable gadget, including GPS and two-way radios, heart rate monitors and cadence meters, enough portable tools to build a rocket launcher and their titanium full-suspension super-light bikes that cost more than the entire annual budget of some the villages we would be visiting. Of course, this was all proportionately opposite to their riding ability, but we were given a useful commentary of stats throughout the trip such as, “Altitude: 1440m la, bearing: 20, 52N, 98, 30E, wind speed…”.

On day two, as we entered the maze of single tracks, we were subjected to the likes of: “Ong Chee, ah, report position ovah,” squelch squelch, “OK roger that, ovah,” “We are approaching river with water in it, ovah,” along with periodic warnings like “Hole” and “Rut” and “Snake!”, which would echo down the line.

We set out early for Chiang Dao – a distinctive and isolated mountain about 80kms north of Chiang Mai, and the road to it meanders through a narrow cutting that is draped in morning mist with sheer rock faces looming on either side of the asphalt road. The caves at the base are a honeycomb of adventure and a 30-minute tour through the dark network is a welcome change from the saddle. Pressing on, we arrive in the small adjacent town in time for the Tuesday morning market, which gives us a fascinating glimpse into Northern Thailand country life. The colourful Lisu have come to town for the day, hawking their embroidery in a kaleidoscope of colour that matches our Lycra cycling gear. On display are some bizarre root remedies including one that promises to cure ‘all pocks and syphilitic eruptions around the neck’! Fruit is the mainstay of the economy in these parts and it becomes quite obvious as our route zigzagged for the rest of the day through undulating terrain covered in orchards.

After a night in which we had the entire Alpine-styled Chiang Dao Hills Resort to ourselves, we set out again on another nicely scheduled flat ride that skirts the massif of Doi Angkhang. This close to the Myanmar border, we observe a difference in cultural influences, most notably the multi-tiered roofs of the Shan’s Buddhist temples. It makes me feel like we have entered another country. Later in the afternoon, we finally approach the border town of Tha Ton, riding along dykes between irrigated fields, as we dead-reckon towards a giant Buddha on the hillside above the town.

Tha Ton is a tiny town that sits astride the Kok river as it enters Thailand through a gap in the adjacent hills. The following morning, we take to boats once more to negotiate the hilly terrain by way of river. It involves squeezing ourselves and bikes into these unstable boats, much to the bemusement of some loitering Kareni hill tribe folk who probably think we are absolutely crazy to be tackling this province by bike. Today we ride only 20kms. The route follows the river bank on a dirt road that passes several rural villages before arriving in Baan Ruammit — a hive of tourist activity with its elephant camp and handicraft shops. Bikes are now traded for elephants and the tour deviates from cycling to trekking. But 15 jolting minutes on the back of a lumbering elephant leaves me wishing I had never left my saddle. Before long, however, these stoic beasts are effortlessly trundling up steep unbikeable paths and I concede that cycling would’ve been a bad idea.

Within an hour, we come upon Baan Ya Fu — a Lahu village that will host us for the night. Here there is no electricity, no road access in the rainy season and few conveniences, yet the locals seem content and busy. Our usual four-star accommodation has been traded for a bamboo long house, short on comfort but rich in atmosphere. This tiny hamlet of 400 really is something to write home about. To the metronomic thud of a foot-driven mortar, we wander around the small lopsided village. There are kids following us around curiously, playful puppies tumbling in the dust, chickens aimlessly strutting around, and dogs and ducks keeping an eye on each other. An exhausted sow lies helpless as a clutch of hungry piglets attack her shrivelled udders. The locals regard us suspiciously, for the Lahu are one of the shyest of the hill tribes, and I can’t help thinking we have turned their village into a human zoo.

Day six starts with a trek down the hillside to Mae Sa waterfall, where we pick up a transfer to the base of Doi Mae Salong. Today we will tackle the first of the hills, with a bet to see who wimps out. Mae Salong is an interesting community of tea growers of Chinese descent. Their previous generation arrived here as Kuomintang exiles who were unable to reach Taiwan when they fled Mao’s communists in 1949. Apart from all the tea fields and obvious Chinese character, the town enjoys wonderful views — earning itself the description ‘Little Switzerland’. Fortunately, the climb is all on asphalt and the ordeal is over in less than two hours. We are rewarded with a fantastic panorama from the striking Wat Boromathat perched on a nearby hill.

By now we were craving more of the exhilarating downhill that whet our appetite on day one and right on cue we descend Doi Mae Salong on seldom-used dirt roads that pass through more hill tribe villages. It’s a deliberately short day because we are to stay at one of the area’s most luxurious resorts: Phu Chai Sai, with bungalows constructed entirely of bamboo and a sweeping restaurant area that commands excellent views. It’s ideal for relaxation in preparation for the final, and most demanding, day of the journey. Besides, by now we have covered more than 400kms and could do with a rest.

The final leg sets out on dirt roads and single track through some unusual karst scenery interspersed with rice paddies. But ahead of us, the imposing Doi Tung mountain has a 1000m ascent. Doi Tung is the northernmost elevated position in the country and was the scene of some cross border spats with the Burmese in 2002. It also attracts plenty of Thai tourists to the flower gardens developed by the late Princess Mother who had a winter home here.

With trepidation, we tackle the steep inclines to reach the revered temple at the summit, which apparently houses a clavicle bone of the Lord Buddha. When you’re moving at 5kph with a seemingly endless climb around each corner you have plenty of time to question why you volunteered for this madness. But the sense of achievement and satisfaction of summitting unaided is fantastic when you see the views. To the southeast is the whole Chiang Rai valley. After a further short climb, we are humbled by the stretching expanse of Myanmar to the north. With scarcely a sign of human habitation anywhere, we feel like we have reached the edge of a frontier. In fact, the very edge. The road we are on demarcates the border as we pass both Thai and Burmese checkpoints facing-off metres apart. Spotting some tempting single track to my left, I feel the urge to take a sudden dive down the hillside into Myanmar.

Instead we descend on some hairy switchbacks before coasting into the dusty frontier town of Mae Sai – popular with visa runners, gamblers and porn VCD shoppers. No one is interested in hopping over the border and we are eager to press on to the Golden Triangle. And so we follow a single track along the banks of the Ruak river until we eventually reach the mighty Maekong and the end of our journey. Exhausted after 500kms, we all pose under the famous ‘Golden Triangle’ sign in the little tourist town of Sop Ruak. Behind us is the distinctive sandbar that indicates the point where three countries meet – the symbolic centre of an area once famous for opium production and smuggling. All there is left to see now is a couple of museums, tacky souvenir shops and the interesting historic town of Chiang Saen, 10kms south. But we’re all done with touring and collapse into the minivans for the easy route back to Chiang Mai.

Many visitors come to Thailand to fulfil their imagination. They come to stuff their mental photo album full of impressions and memories. Perhaps they go home with exotic images of glistening temples and ancient chedis, or the unusual odours of a bustling food market and incense soaked shrines. It could be a heart-melting Thai smile or a breathtaking coastal vista – whatever your adventure here it’s almost impossible to leave Thailand without, at least, something to think about.

But, I left with nothing. Well, not entirely nothing, but certainly very little in the way of memories. And if I had, then surely I would’ve failed in my endeavour. While others were out toting cameras and riding elephants I was seated perfectly still. As they tucked into sumptious Thai curries I fasted, and while they amused themselves with go go bars and cultural performances I stared blankly into the recesses of my mind – spring cleaning it with an imaginary feather duster that took every inch of my discipline to wield.

Entering a temple for a meditation retreat is an increasingly popular activity among foreigners to Thailand, and several temples across the country have developed programmes specifically for English speaking practitioners. And so I came to spend a week confined to a small kuti (hut), eating a single meal per day and meditating for up-to ten hours each day. Believe me, it wasn’t easy or relaxing.

“Your entire focus should remain on your breathing” the Ajarn (instructor) told us on our first day, “not just the intake of air but the actual point it enters you nose, so that you feel the draft on your nose hairs, that is the only thing in the whole world you should be aware of”. With that in mind we were left to get on with it. There was no further instruction or team work exercises, for the teachings of this particular monk were both simple and subtle. “Breath in slowly on a count of three. Pause for two counts. Breath out on the count of three. Pause for two counts. Breath in on the count of three…” and so it went on. If this was the way to some enlightenment or revelation then I had better find a lot more patience.

In hindsight I came to understand his wisdom, for meditation involves very little in the way of action. There are methods, yes, but the essence of many them is quite simple – to empty your mind or keep it focused on a single thought. Of course I hadn’t found that insight just yet and so I followed the instructions, somewhat bewildered and frustrated. We had all been given a quick tutorial on how to sit comfortably, for it is important to be comfortable in the lotus position if you are to spend ten hours of the day wrapped up like a human piece of origami, but most of us appeared to struggle immediately with numbed legs and aching backs. Herein lay another hidden lesson that Ajarn was later to reveal to us, but for the time being we suffered.

Suffering, he taught us on day two, was part of human nature. It was the first of four noble truths taught by the Buddha. That was the second day’s lesson. I hadn’t slept well on the hard wooden floor of the kuti and certainly wasn’t feeling comfortable or relaxed, but I guess I wasn’t exactly here on vacation. Ajarn had politely enquired after our thoughts on how day one had gone, but it was brief and so was lesson. Back to the meditating. “It is perfectly normal for thoughts to enter your mind while you are meditating. This is human nature” he said in a droll, matter-of-fact voice “the objective is to catch those thoughts before your imagination and mind do something with them. Softly let them go and return to a state of emptiness.” Guide to Thai Buddhism

But day one hadn’t been quite that easy. Thinking back, for remembering what I was experiencing at the time wasn’t exactly encouraged, the first few days were certainly the toughest. Within 10 minutes I wanted to give up. I became restless and uncomfortable. Thoughts of my real life, out ‘there’ somewhere, kept jumping into my mind – excitement of a strange and unusual place full of new sights, smells and sounds. Of course it’s nearly impossible to suddenly sit down for an hour at a time staring at your navel when you’ve never done this before. I took a break after 10 minutes. Ten minutes became fifteen. Then more breaks, sitting silently while around me in the small temple where others sitting motionless and oblivious to me as they too ‘wound down’ the clock.

It wasn’t long before my mind began to become philosophical I guess. I thought about how fast paced our lives are and how obvious it becomes when you can’t even get through ten minutes of nothingness. By the end of the day I was suffering some pretty strong emotions. I was already dreaming up excuses and lies on how to make an early exit from the retreat without losing face. At the end of the session no one spoke to each other, as you would on a conventional camp, for that would simply ‘fill your mind with garbage’ as one of the junior monks had aptly put it. It was a lonely task. There was no ‘break out’ relief, just the dull anti-climax of returning silently to the rock hard floor of my claustrophobic 8 square feet kuti in the forest.

So why would anyone put themselves through this unpleasant ordeal. The answer to this would take a few days yet to arrive, and by now I was counting hours in boredom – there were still five whole days left of this. But the first glimpse of appreciation is the moring meal you take after the abbot and monks have helped themselves. There is a heircarchy here and women eat last, it’s nothing personal but Buddhist establishments are strictly traditional. I’ve never been an avid vegetarian but this simple food never tasted so good. When you’re seated and inactive all day your apetite fades anyway. After breakfast we each had an assigned chore and herein lies another meditation lesson.

“Like this” the junior monk shows me kindly, with a genuine smile. He demonstrates the sweeping motion of the broom. I notice his meditative focus, the way he deliberates on the patch of leaves beneath him, and I start to understand the concentration he places on the steady movement of the handle and the small perfect path it leaves on the ground. I realise that my mind had been on rock music as I absently swished away. Later, in a moment of further contemplation I realised that his smile wasn’t a deliberate act of friendship to gain my interest, but a concerted effort of focus to keep positive and happy and it reminded me of the grinning face of the Dalai Lama on the cover of his books. Then I realised that this too was a distraction of thought and I returned my attention to the leaves. Now I was beginning to get it.

Day three and I was beginning to get used to the endless hours of sitting motionless. Everything improves with practice and so it was that I could now shut out everything from my thoughts for long periods. My existence had become boring, my outside world forgotten and now I was beginning to feel the benefit of meditation. Ajarn now began to unravel his cryptic lessons, as if it was all methodically planned. He explained that our minds are endlessly challenged by the influence of thoughts. They arise from the experiences around us and we find ourselves thinking about anything but the present moment.

Ah, ‘the present moment’. Now there’s a key element of meditation. In my ‘pre-retreat’ interest I had taken the time to read up about Buddhist meditation and ‘living in the present moment’ seemed to be a central theme. Ajarn was right of course. We spend our lives deaydreaming on memories or future wishes and we fail to concentrate fully on what we are presently doing. We make mistakes, forget things, say and do wrongly to those around us. His morning lecture – as we sat at his feet like kindergarten children – was certainly astute. He let us with the thought of ‘remaining mindful at all times’.

And so the days ticked by, with mindfulness uppermost in our minds, so that we had little room for anything else going on around us. Soon we were to even learn walking meditation as a tool for the Vippasana Buddhist meditation techniques we were practicing. So mindful were we, that we end up spending long periods simply concentrating on our walking, each movement of the feet, the feeling of grass against our soles, the pace of movement – counted out in fours – and above all, an empty mind focused on a single present movement.

If I had expected some kind of peaceful, friendly, relaxing course, then I was wrong. Getting through the week wasn’t easy but I succeeded where several others failed. Every day another of the kutis around me became empty as others gave in and left early. Others, I came to learn, spent a whole month there. The cost was minimal, just a small donation, but the basic facilities were clean and hygienic. All I arrived with was two sets of lose white cotton clothes and some toiletries.

Finally, by the fifth and sixth day I was achieving almost 10 hours of proper meditation, mixing the various techniques we had been taught. All monks arise at 4am to begin, and so it was with us. Sitting silently in your kuti meditating in the dark takes a little courage and discipline but by sunrise you certainly feel like you have achieved something. After breakfast the walking meditation would help us get focused, then there would be seated meditation and maybe group meditation and chanting in the evenings, using the mantras we had been taught. Of course, along the way we learnt some valuable lessons in Buddhism to help understand the nature of human emotions, but never did the religion encroach on our own personal beliefs. Even when we returned to our beds we were encouraged to meditate on our every movements. And so, gradually, we descended deeper into an understanding of our true selves, my emotions became more settled and any fear, anxiety or negativity I had brought with me seemed to fade. Thai culture guide

On a bright sunny morning, after a final chat with Ajarn, I checked out. There was nothing ceremonious about it. Together with four others we silently filed out of the temple grounds and into a waiting mini-bus. We spoke little – I for one was cherishing the noticeably peaceful demeanor – and took away with us a unique and rewarding experience. I recall the lovely silence in the temple, the sense of space and expanse of lawn. The was the large Bodhi tree and simple forest temple, clearly designed for low key practical use. I noticed all these things now, there was time for this as I had little else on my mind. At last I felt I could really see. And despite the tough challenge of spending a week on a meditation retreat I really had no regrets I had done this.

Doi Angkhang really is at the precipice of a wild frontier. I discovered this when our press trip rolled up at an army lookout point somewhere on the roof of Thailand, and there before us was the sweeping hermit-like expanse of Myanmar. Only a small saddle separated us from the their red flagged post, but beyond that lay a cavernous valley and manifold ranges of wild untouched mountains. They seemed dark, moody and shadowed and I could see no villages or roads, not even a tell-tale whisp of smoke. I realised then that getting to this point from the Myanmar side could take you weeks, if you were allowed to penetrate the area at all. This was, without doubt, the end of the road as far as civilisation was concerned in this region.

Minutes before we had passed through a rare Palong village. If real estate here was based on views they’d all be millionaires, but on these mountains value lies with culitvatable land. Anywhere there is a ridge suitable for agriculture you can spot these colourful hilltribe folk bent double over their vegetable gardens, or in their small orchids. In decades past they may have been idly sitting about waiting for the poppy blossoming season, but opium hasn’t been seen much in these parts for more than 30 years. In fact the area is now famous as the flagship of the highly successful King’s Project to replace opium production with sustainable and lawful agricultural alternatives.

Doi Angkhang is described as Thailand’s ‘Little Switzerland’ and it’s not difficult to imagine why. This mountainous cluster of peaks and valleys sits at 1500m above sea level, enjoys a cool climate year-round and offers brilliant views wherever you look. Since drug barons and pockets of communist insurgents were expunged from the area a decade ago it has become steadily more popular, especially with Thai tourists. Now it has a reputation for some of the most rugged scenery and steepest roads in the North, and it occupies one of the Kingdom’s most remote corners – in a bulge along the Northern border.

Taking it’s name from the bowl (ang) shaped valley set among a vague circle of summits, Doi Angkhang is a three hour drive North of Chiang Mai through the pretty Chiang Dao area. It is promoted now as an eco-tourism destination, less so for its ecology but more for the economic aspect of the programs which have offered upliftment to the variety of hilltribes living there. None-the-less it remains a pristine wilderness with very little commerical development, and a number of interesting attractions and activities. To the foreign visitor it offers a unique and accessible window into a seldom seen world of rural southeast Asia.

Most of the area is under the administration of the Royal Angkhang Project. And they welcome visitors to witness the results of their efforts to preserve the natural environment and improve the livelyhood of the locals. When the project kicked off in 1969 much of the hillsides were depleted of forest. Illegal logging and forest clearing for poppy fields had left the landscape barren and susceptible to erosion, as well as severe wind conditions. However, a patient re-aforestation programme, employing local labour, has returned the forest to its original canopy — albiet with a number of foreign species. Our guide was quick to point out that these were carefully selected to maximize growth and protection while minimising the impact of change to the eco-system. Today a nature reserve is demarcated above the Angkhang Resort, which include nature trails and good biking routes. Bird watching is also being promoted, with more than 1000 species recorded in the area.

The resort itself, owned by the Project but managed by the Amari group, offers very comfortable cabins and has been specifically designed as a low impact development. It uses local materials, such as teak, carefully manages its waste disposal and draws much of its workforce from the local communities. They provide tours of the local projects, trips to the border post and lookout points, and a number of activities, including trekking and mule riding.

Anxious to show us the success of the Royal Project, our hosts dragged us off to a Musor (also known as Lahu) hilltribe village. While the village was still very primitive and poor, the next generation of this community were being trained as ‘future guides’ and were clearly enjoying their school activities. Judging by the number of tour groups stomping through their classrooms each week, they were getting some good hands-on experience with outsiders. Apart from the grubby uniforms (the scout outfits had been supplied by the governement) and dilapidated facilities, the school rooms weren’t too dissimilar to classrooms I’ve previously taught in Chiang Mai.

The kids sang us songs and demonstrated their cadet drill. On the walls were newspaper cuttings of ‘Euro 2004’, with a ubiquitous Beckham poster. Of the 300 students (ranging in age from 5 — 15) almost half walked the three kilometres back and forth from the the nearby Palong village every day. Their parents spend their days tending small plots loaned to them by the government and sell some of the produce at a market in the valley, from where it finds its way to Fang and other nearby towns. Northern Thailand visitors guide

Meanwhile a handful of the kids’ grandmothers loitered menacingly outside the school desperate to sell us handmade jewellery. Even up here in the mountains some things never change, and for a minute there I thought I was in Chiang Mai’s night market. “Haaarshhip (50) Baht” one muttered with a hint of intoxication as she pressed a handful of cheap silver bangles into my chest. She struck a macabre image with her toothless mouth blood red from betel nut. As the only foreigner on the trip I remained her focus, and she relented only briefly to spit out a gobfull of red saliva. The effects of tourism here were obvious.

We moved on to wander among their weather beaten bamboo longhouses scattered among the mud. Piglets, dogs and chickens trotted about aimlessly, but it was the incredible views of the Fang valley that kept distracting us all. Visiting these villages creates somewhat of a human zoo, and even my Thai colleagues from the city seemed fascinated by this completely unfamiliar ethnic group. However, the locals seemed unperturbed, even welcoming of the ever increasing number of outsiders that had found their way up here.

In all there are four different hilltribes settled on Doi Angkhang, including the Lahu, Palong, Thai Yai (Shan) and Jin Haw, and each have a unique dress and customs. The Jin haw (galloping Chinese), for instance, migrated from China during the cultural revolution and originally came as maruding horseman. The Palong, whose village abuts the border army post, are a rare minority group whose numbers in Thailand are less than 2000. They arrived as recently as 1984 as refugees from Myanmar and were quickly settled, perhaps to provide a buffer against further arrivals.

These villages are the lucky ones, for this area has been the showcase of the King’s Project and they have experienced few of the delays and hurdles that others have encountered in receiving full rights and recognition as Thai citizens.

Down in the Angkhang valley is the Royal Project centre which is a visitor’s locus point and final destination along this rollercoaster road. At the headquarters there are several hectares of magnificent gardens that roll off the mountainside with a colourful arrangment of rhodedendrons and azaleas as well as an ‘English Rose’ garden. The fresh mountain climate and orderly gardens is more reminiscent of Europe and there is a terrace restaurant catering to visitors.

Down in the valley you can also visit the green houses and orchids of the project, a veritable salad bowl of produce tended by employees from the nearby villages. These vegetables and fruits — which include peaches, persimmons, strawberries and kiwi fruit — are sold nationwide under the brand Doi Kham. Doi Angkhang online guide There is also a magnificent nursery and sculptured arrangement of domestic plants and shrubs, housed under an enormous greenhouse. Also in the valley is a village with a few handicraft vendors and a modest guesthouse. Spending a night or two up here in the fresh cool air, away from the tourist development seen elsewhere in and around Chiang Mai is rewarding. The area is accessible year round with good roads and fantastic scenery.

It seems so strange that a day earlier we had been in bustling Chiang Mai. Even the trekking routes are no longer considered adventurous and remote. But out here on Doi Angkhang, where Thailand’s tourist laden attractions come to an end, you can really feel like you are gazing out into the an uninhabited and untouched wilderness.

Late in the afternoon, as the travellers rose from their afternoon slumbers and the heat dissipated I sat beside the small Pai river while it quietly gushes through Northern Thailand’s most chilled out destination, and reflected on a week of doing nothing but relaxing.

As the sound of Tracy Chapman softly drifted over from the nearby bar I sipped a cool fruit shake and tried to read, but the atmosphere was just too distracting. A pair of hippie backpackers in their fisherman’s pants and cotton tunics came by, crossing the small bamboo footbridge in the distance, pausing to admire the row of quaint bungalows lining the river and the young rice in the paddies beyond. Another couple were engrossed in a game of chess, sitting cross-legged in the small floor-level restaurant while here and there lounged a few more, silently studying their Lonely Planets, as travellers tend to do these days.

I come to Pai a few times a year. It’s a wonderful escape from the traffic and noise of Chiang Mai and often I meet others who are regulars up here, like Lonely Planet’s author Joe Cummings who plays guitar in a local bar. Then there are the permanent locals, a small crowd of friends who get by on the odd freelance writing and other work. There’s always someone in Pai, even during the wet off-season when only long-term travellers stay on for weeks. In fact it gets so crowded with wanna-be bohemians during the season that I barely show my face here until after February. Chiang Mai backpackers guide

Pai is one of those special places that developed its own distinct character which is built on an atmosphere rather than anything special. Sure, the trip over the mountains is great, as it winds over ridges that offer spectacular vistas and a cool climate among the dense and lush forest, but the town itself sits in a flat and often dry valley that could be any rural farming community in Northern Thailand. It certainly is remote, miles from anywhere and not far from Mae Hong Song, which is one of Thailand’s Northern-most towns and on the edge of a vast untouched interior of Burma’s off-limits Shan states. Up here you really feel like you have escaped the world.

So, why do I come back to Pai again and again? Perhaps it’s the rustic bungalows beside the refreshingly cool stream, maybe it’s the new age character and chilled out people. I certainly don’t miss the tuk tuks and go go bars. There’s few up market resorts and expensive restaurants to make you feel cheap and uncomfortable. And the tourists who come here are free spirited travellers, content with basic facilities and humble services. Maybe it’s just the thought of floating down the river on rubber tubes, with my head in the clouds, that appeals to me.

Actually, there is more to Pai than simply sitting around smoking the green stuff. Several activities are offered by local agents, such as white-water rafting, trekking and enduro motorcycle excursions. Then there are the ‘do it yourself’ day trips to places such as Pai Canyon (hardly Grand but interesting), and the waterfall to the Northwest of the town. Or you can rent a bike and follow some of the roads that meander up the valley. The less adventurous never make it past the public swimming pool across the river but if you go a little further, following the road back down the valley, there’s a small elephant camp, and hot springs which are ideal for the chilly winter mornings.

The Thais love Pai too. It’s just the romantic kind of destination that Uni students get to on their Vespas, complete with camping gear loaded on the back. Occasionally a big tour bus barrels through the town on its way to Mae Hong Son. In fact, if you’re a first time visitor, completing the entire ‘loop’ and returning via the southern approach to Chiang Mai through the Doi Inthanon national park is a great way to truly experience Northern Thailand. The caves at Soppong, half way to Mae Hong Song are particularly interesting. Pai & Mae Hong Son guide

Pai has grown significantly in the past eight years. It’s one of those places that made it into the guide books and backpacker lore and now steadily attracts more and more of the ‘right’ kind of people. Locals have thrived, building guest houses, opening restaurants and bars and setting up tour businesses. Of course a few outsiders arrived to help them and the whole success is built on the distinct atmosphere it has created. No one has rushed into snap up the river front property and build an internationally managed hotel. Perhaps the devastating floods of August 2005 had some positive effect on keeping commercialisation out of Pai.

There’s talk of extending the runway to capitalise on its potential but thankfully no one has been silly enough ruin a good thing. A few controversial town planning directives have created some unfortunate ‘rules’, but by and large Pai remains ‘Pai’. Some say it’s just not what it was a few years ago, and every time I come I notice new places have open, while others have closed. But a first time visitor will not be disappointed with the slow atmosphere, the traffic-less streets, quaint guest houses, relaxing massage shops and cheap restaurants. And by night the town can sometimes come alive with live music at places like Bee Bop and Edible Jazz. It’s no wonder that quite a few Thai and foreigners come to Pai and just don’t seem to leave.

Nothing beats mother nature for design and waterfalls are some of the loveliest examples of how mountains, water and gravity can combine to produce some breathtaking sights. Northern Thailand certainly has the mountains, and plenty of water, which together produce some of the country’s loveliest waterfalls. In fact there are so many to get to that you’re spoilt for choice.

Within an hour’s drive of Chiang Mai are more than a dozen large falls and countless smaller waterfalls that provide fantastic photo opportunities, and great picnic spots which attracts crowd of locals who love to frolic in the waters and enjoy an impromptu meal againsts a gorgeous backdrop. Chiang Mai top attractions

We’ve picked out 10 of the best, some easy to find, others a well kept secret.

Waterfalls of Chiang Mai

Huay Kaew falls
Perhaps the easiest to get to from Chiang Mai city, conveniently located at the foot of Doi Suithep, just above the zoo. This waterfall not only has a sizeable plunge but then cascades over a 50m rock slope which is good for cooling off or picnicking. It’s free and popular with locals on weekends. There are also several restaurants overlooking the rock cascade.

Monthathal falls
Slightly further up the hill, this falls is on the same river and has several much higher tiers but visitors will have to pay the 200 baht national park entrance. It’s a shame for this discourages many from visiting the lovely camp grounds and picnic spot at its base. A short climb takes you to the second level, but if you’re fit you can climb up to the third and higher drop or press on up the trail a further 40 minutes to a second, pretty little falls hidden in the forest and seldom visited.

Mae Sa waterfalls
The largest and most spectacular series of waterfalls in the Chiang Mai area, This multi-tier complex tumbles over no less than 10 levels, some of them small and private near the top while others are large chutes of water that look great from the lookout point near the car park. The locals love this one and parts get crowded on weekends, but it’s reasonably safe and ideal for playful kids, certainly worth visiting on a trip to the popular Ma Sae valley area. The 200 baht entrance ticket is good for other national parks waterfalls in the area on the same day.

Tad Mork falls
A right side turn off on the way to Mae Sa follows a pretty valley for 10kms and is worth the drive before arriving at this low-key falls that has an impressive 15m curtain of water. Further up is a smaller, more private falls that is free. There is a nice picnic spot along the way and a puvlic lunch menu is offered at the stunning Sukantara resort which has its own private cascade.

Mok Fa falls
On the road to Pai it’s worth stopping off at this lofty falls, it’s about 40 minutes from Chiang Mai and although the national parks charge a 200 baht entrance fee, the main falls is quite impressive in the rainy season. If you don’t already have a ticket from the others then it might seem a bit disappointing to pay for this one.

Sri Sang Wang falls
There are several in Northern Thailand by this name but we’ve singled out this well kept secret for its fun 8m water slide which has a plunge pool jut deep enough to make this safe and fun. There’s only one problem, it’s tucked away on the south side of Doi Pui mountain and only accessible by mountain biking down the trail that starts in the Baan Doi Pui tourist hilltribe village, or by hiking up from the park entrance found on the Samoeng road (south). It does have a second very high tier below the slide which can be dangerous as there are no safe view points to stand at.

Bua Thong falls
This is one of the lesser visited falls in the area but included on tours for its unusual limestone face which is arranged in convenient steps and safe to climb with it’s firm gripping rock. The water comes directly from a spring above the falls and cascades over the brown sandstone bolders to produce an unusual appearance. These falls are located on the road North to Phrae about 40kms from Chiang Mai.

Doi Inthanon waterfalls – Chiang Mai
Doi Inthanon National Park is one of the country’s best and apart from boasting the highest point in Thailand and a couple of regal chedis near the summit, it has lush vegetation and multiple eco-systems, a camp ground with chalets to rent and several fantastic waterfalls. The park is an hour’s drive south of Chiang Mai.

Mae Klang falls
Of the four magnificent waterfalls easily accessible in Doi Inthanon National Park, this is the first and easiest to get to. Located at the bottom of the hill, it has a massive cascade and the lower sections are usually jam packed with Thai families on weekends frolicking in the water pools. A 200 baht entrance applies which gets you into the others. There are usually as many food vendors as there are visitors here.

Mae Ya falls
Also at the bottom of the mountain but remotely located (by following a 10km road turning left almost immediately after turning off the main highway) this is by far the most spectacular of all the waterfalls near Chiang Mai. The main falls is about 40 meters high and 10 meters wide with a viewpoint right beneath it, but thereafter the abundant water continues down a gentle slope that adds to its dramatic appearance. Plenty of food and drink is available on site.

Vachiritan falls
Located halfway up Doi Inthanon, this falls has a lofty curtain of water as a backdrop for some nice picnic spots and swimming pools. You can park at the top or bottom, the latter having the best picnic spots and the food vendors. It also gets rather busy on a hot summer’s day.

Life for most people in Thailand still revolves around the local market. And the large majority who still follow a traditional way of life will bracket their day with visits to the market in the early morning and at dusk. For them the market is a social opportunity, a place to eat or pick up dinner, find a bargain and, of course, sell their own backyard produce. These are scattered all across the country and form an essential part of living for most.

Spending a morning at one of the several markets in the Chiang Mai city centre is a wonderful way to truly experience Thailand. They present a cornucopia of fascinating and bizarre items and food stuffs, the likes of which you’ve never seen or imagined. Live fish flap helplessly in shallow containers, stalls sell a macabre collection of root and herb remedies that wouldn’t be out of place in a Macbeth play, while others display their enormous selection of dried insects and bugs which ought to be in a curator’s draw, not offered as a delicacy. Full Chiang Mai shopping guide

At a Thailand market you might find strange vegetables that you never imagined edible or exotic fruits that look like nothing you’ve seen or tasted before. The cactus-like dragon fruit for example has a pink exterior yet reveals a white fleshy inside full of little black seeds. Or how about the hairy rambutan or smelly durian?

Markets are also a good place to find a good selection of traditional Thai confectionary and produce, with numerous stalls hawking a dizzy and colourful array of snack and sweets, along with dried fruits, fish, meats and, the ubiquitous chilli products that range from dried chillis of every imaginable kind, to sauces, pastes, and even chilli flavoured ice-cream. A market in Thailand without chilli simply wouldn’t be a market.

Food is the largest attraction for most Thai visitors to a market and if you’re a hygiene freak you’ll almost certainly be alarmed at the piles of curry paste and powder, ready-to-eat noodles, raw meat protected from the hot tropical heat by a makeshift fly fan cobbled together from an old motor and some loose pieces of plastic.

But it’s not just the produce and products on display, it’s the people that also offer an attraction. Wandering around a local market in the mid morning, watching weather beaten old wives swapping tales and recipes in an animated and endless conversation, while others bargain and banter in a light hearted manner is an enchanting window into the true character of the Thai. There will be music playing from several sources and portable TVs everywhere in a chaotic din of activity that scarcely bothers the vendors.

An early evening trip to the suburban markets is another opportunity to witness the locals on a mission to satisfy their bellies after an almost hard day’s work. Motorbikes and bicycles come and go in a mayhem of activity and small humble stalls offer fruits and instant curry dishes for less than 50 cents. It’s all quite enlightening to the rest of us who are used to waltzing around a Wal-mart with a trolley that has a mind of its own.

Here are some of the most popular and easily accessible markets in Chiang Mai.

Warorot market Located beside the river at the end of Chiang Moi road, this is the largest and most central of the markets in the city. It still retains its traditional feel and caters to both locals and visitors alike, with a ground floor full of food stuffs and good value clothing on the mezzanine levels. It’s also a good place to pick up fabrics in the adjacent streets. It’s a ten minute walk from the central Tapae road and well worth a visit during the day. By night the bottom end of Chiang Moi road becomes an evening flea market.

Ton Lamyai – the flower market Adjacent to Wororot is a line of flower shops on the opposite side of the road from the riverfront. Flowers may not be high on a traveller’s shopping list but its worth a look to gasp at the counter-inflationary cost of a dozen roses (about US$5!). Here you’ll find the city’s greatest concentration of kratoeys (ladyboys) who seem to naturally gravitate towards flower arranging! Both arrangements and fresh flowers are widely available.

Somphet Market This smaller food market is regularly ‘discovered’ by tourists wandering the old town as it sits beside the eastern flank of the moat on Moon Muang road (soi/lane 6) and it’s a genuine and fascinating glimpse at live food for sale. The cookery schools like to bring students here to verse them in ingredients. It’s only a five minute walk from Tapae Gate, northwards.

Muang Noi Market This is the fresh fruit centre of Chiang Mai and it is here that restaurants and locals will come to source the best pineapples, bananas, watermelons and more to make those delicious and cheap smoothies they all offer. It’s found near the American Consulate, beside the river a little north of the city, but within a 10 minute walk of Wororot Market.

Tapae Square and the Walking Street This is an absolute must if you plan to be in Chiang Mai on a Sunday. Relatively new to Chiang Mai it has become the most popular and busiest market attraction after the famed Night Bazaar and occupies four blocks along Ratchadamnoen road as it traverses the old town from Tapae Gate to the Three Kings Monument. Art, handicrafts, souvenirs and more are accompanied by buskers, food stalls and lots of people. The goods on display here aren’t tacky like you might find at the Night Bazaar, but the street does get crowded.

The Night Bazaar Famous throughout Thailand, the Chiang Mai Night Bazaar is perhaps the best place in the Kingdom to stock up on souvenirs and tourist-friendly clothing and accessories. It takes up several blocks along Chan Klan road with its locus at the intersection with Loi Kroh road – an area now being colonised by Starbucks and McDonalds. Most of the stalls here display clothes, but many also hawk fake goods, luggage, Thai handicrafts, souvenirs, jewelry, footwear and more. The real stuff can be found in the Vieng Ping centre, which is a two level gallery that houses better quality wares (and slightly more expensive). This is a prime attraction in Chiang Mai and no visit to the city is complete without a night spent here. There is also a food court here where you are treated to classical Thai dancing accompanied by a Thai ensemble, as well as numerous restaurants, fast food outlets, coffee shops and ice cream parlours in the area. Make sure you have your bargaining boots on! Chiang Mai night market

Anusarn Market Essentially part of the extended Night Bazaar precinct area, the Anusarn market is a large open area set back from Chang Klan street, five minutes walk from the central intersection of the Night Market area. This is a food market with local produce and Northern delicacies, but has some wonderful seafood restaurants among others, open in the evenings until about 10:30pm. It servers hungry night shoppers well and is a welcome respite from the busier main street.

Wualai Street Market Wualai street is traditionally the silversmith and jewellery area of the city but these days almost anything is sold here from light fittings to traditional herbs. Recently they began a Saturday evening market here which is similar to the Walking Street and a fun evening activity where you will find buskers, food vendors and plenty of art. Wualai street runs diagonally from the Chiang Mai gate on the South flank of the moat.

Local markets To escape the overly commercial and tourist feel of the city centre markets and witness a real suburban market, there are several you can easily find. Chang Phuak market is the nearest, and within walking distance but mostly sells trendy T-shirts and casual wear. It is located just north of the Chang Phuak gate on the Northern flank of the moat. For something more authentic, head towards the mountain along Suithep road, past the hospital on your right until it meets the canal road. Tucked away to your right at this intersection is Ton Payom market, which is open all day. If you travel along Huay Kaew road towards the university you will discover a popular night market after the super-highway intersection, which caters mainly for Thai students. Further on, where the road intersects with the canal road, head down the small lane that is beside the 7-eleven a you’ll find a delightful dusk market with fresh produce.

Khamtien plant market Plants may not be something you can take home in your suitcase but Thailand boasts some wonderful tropical species and gardening is popular. This market, located behind Tesco Lotus on the Super-highway (north), is a wonderful place to spend an afternoon browsing the colourful array of nature’s finest. Many of the shops have created enchanting secret Balinese styled gardens, with ponds and fountains and plenty of greenery – a perfect escape from the concrete jungle of the downtown area.

JJ Market This is one of the newest markets in the city, a purpose built crafts centre for the city’s distinctive bohemian element to display all their curious wares. It’s located near Khamtien market and is open on weekends. Genuine Arts are offered here.

Think ‘Chiang Mai’ and images of mountains and waterfalls come to mind. First time visitors might be forgiven for thinking that Chiang Mai’s key attractions and activities include temple tours and trekking, and that the Northern culture is defined by colourfully dressed hill tribe folk and an ancient moat. But one of the city’s greatest selling points is its fantastic shopping and the Baan Tawai craft centre south of the city is a cornucopia of handicrafts, home décor and Asian cultural souvenirs.

Few people come to Chiang Mai without an evening spent wandering the famous Night Bazaar and going home with a lot more than they intended. The range and prices of goods on display are astonishing, featuring everything from antiques to Zen art. But this is simply a convenient warm up for Baan Tawai, where many of the crafts are made and sold at much cheaper prices. Guide to Baan Tawai

“We had a fantastic day there” says, Judy Hickman, from Kansas City. “In the end I spent more than a thousand dollars, and the lady at the shop is shipping for me”. She confessed that she didn’t intend to redecorate her home while on holiday but the prices were too good to ignore. “They’re making us a hyacinth sofa for out TV room and we got a bunch of awesome Buddha carvings, one huge one for our lounge wall” she gushes.

The area has been an artisan centre for quite some time, but with the influx of tourism it has expanded considerably in the past five years and now includes several arcades of stalls and small shops, with a whole new wing recently added. The road leading to the centre is also lined with larger shops dealing in furniture, outdoor ceramics and antiques. Handicraft dealers from all over the world now fly in regularly to stock their shops abroad, spawning a whole industry of sourcing agents and logistics support.

But if you’re just here for a little souvenir shopping you won’t regret squeezing a half day tour in to your Northern Thailand schedule. Baan Tawai is the cheapest place in Thailand to find silk, antique reproductions, incense, candles, oil and soap gift packs, ornaments, lamps, bamboo products, wall hangings, frames, vases and much more. They can all be found on market stalls at tourist centres in Bangkok, Phuket and Samui, but the range is far less and the mark-up almost 200 per cent. Most the items on display at Baan Tawai are uniquely Thai, many characteristically Northern and hand made from natural materials.

Wood is definitely the spirit of the place, with plenty of carved figurines, Buddhist art pieces, décor items and wall hangings. But the Thai have a knack for creativity and the range has diversified incredibly in recent years, introducing contemporary designs and ideas. Many of the shops construct teak furniture, made to order, at stunning prices. And although a bedside table doesn’t exactly fit into your suitcase, a professional packing and shipping infra-structure has developed which means you simply have to show up with your credit card.

Apart from spending money, just wandering among the stores and seeing the artisans at work is fun. The Thai are very gifted with their hands and you can see them weaving rattan, carving busts, painting, adding colourful finishes to figurines, or applying delicate lacquer work in time-worn traditions. Another wonderful aspect of Baan Tawai is the pride that the shop owners take in decorating their small shops. Chiang Mai has a distinctively romantic character and the locals love to create small ponds, gardens, water features and displays in the shops, hotel lobbies, restaurants, galleries and coffee shops all over the city. But by far the best little tropical gardens can be found at Baan Tawai.

Baan Tawai is also famous for Asian antiques, some of which rank among the world’s best. Chiang Mai is possibly one of the best places in the region to find not only valuable pieces but very authentic looking reproductions. After all, for 200,000 baht you can become the proud owner of a late-eighteenth century Burmese Buddha head made from marble or you can outfit your entire apartment with equally impressive looking copies for the same price. Thailand shopping guide

“There’s a bigger market now for reproductions”, says Khun Monsit Boonvipatsavee, owner of Chilli Antiques – one of the most established dealers in town. “Now antiques are very expensive and difficult to spot, that’s okay if you’re a dealer, but now people are just looking for something that looks old”, he explains. His gallery on the Hang Dong–Sarapi road has some fantastic examples of ancient-looking Buddha figurines, bronze bowls, pewter and Burmese masks. He has perfected methods of burying newly crafted pieces soaked in acid to speed up the aging process to create truly impressive pieces of pseudo antiquity. Aged bronze Buddha heads are very popular accessories on the décor list of the expensive villas in Phuket and Samui and his pieces can be found in some the country’s most expensive hotels.

Thai products are fast becoming famous the world over, they are cheap and beautifully crafted. From silk bed throws to the ubiquitous triangle cushions, the distinctive styles are now found on flea markets and in decors shops from London to Christchurch. You may not have planned to take too much back with you but once you discover the delightful products available and the prices, you’re likely to be dashing to one of those luggage stalls at the night market.