Many visitors come to Thailand to fulfil their imagination. They come to stuff their mental photo album full of impressions and memories. Perhaps they go home with exotic images of glistening temples and ancient chedis, or the unusual odours of a bustling food market and incense soaked shrines. It could be a heart-melting Thai smile or a breathtaking coastal vista – whatever your adventure here it’s almost impossible to leave Thailand without, at least, something to think about.

But, I left with nothing. Well, not entirely nothing, but certainly very little in the way of memories. And if I had, then surely I would’ve failed in my endeavour. While others were out toting cameras and riding elephants I was seated perfectly still. As they tucked into sumptious Thai curries I fasted, and while they amused themselves with go go bars and cultural performances I stared blankly into the recesses of my mind – spring cleaning it with an imaginary feather duster that took every inch of my discipline to wield.

Entering a temple for a meditation retreat is an increasingly popular activity among foreigners to Thailand, and several temples across the country have developed programmes specifically for English speaking practitioners. And so I came to spend a week confined to a small kuti (hut), eating a single meal per day and meditating for up-to ten hours each day. Believe me, it wasn’t easy or relaxing.

“Your entire focus should remain on your breathing” the Ajarn (instructor) told us on our first day, “not just the intake of air but the actual point it enters you nose, so that you feel the draft on your nose hairs, that is the only thing in the whole world you should be aware of”. With that in mind we were left to get on with it. There was no further instruction or team work exercises, for the teachings of this particular monk were both simple and subtle. “Breath in slowly on a count of three. Pause for two counts. Breath out on the count of three. Pause for two counts. Breath in on the count of three…” and so it went on. If this was the way to some enlightenment or revelation then I had better find a lot more patience.

In hindsight I came to understand his wisdom, for meditation involves very little in the way of action. There are methods, yes, but the essence of many them is quite simple – to empty your mind or keep it focused on a single thought. Of course I hadn’t found that insight just yet and so I followed the instructions, somewhat bewildered and frustrated. We had all been given a quick tutorial on how to sit comfortably, for it is important to be comfortable in the lotus position if you are to spend ten hours of the day wrapped up like a human piece of origami, but most of us appeared to struggle immediately with numbed legs and aching backs. Herein lay another hidden lesson that Ajarn was later to reveal to us, but for the time being we suffered.

Suffering, he taught us on day two, was part of human nature. It was the first of four noble truths taught by the Buddha. That was the second day’s lesson. I hadn’t slept well on the hard wooden floor of the kuti and certainly wasn’t feeling comfortable or relaxed, but I guess I wasn’t exactly here on vacation. Ajarn had politely enquired after our thoughts on how day one had gone, but it was brief and so was lesson. Back to the meditating. “It is perfectly normal for thoughts to enter your mind while you are meditating. This is human nature” he said in a droll, matter-of-fact voice “the objective is to catch those thoughts before your imagination and mind do something with them. Softly let them go and return to a state of emptiness.” Guide to Thai Buddhism

But day one hadn’t been quite that easy. Thinking back, for remembering what I was experiencing at the time wasn’t exactly encouraged, the first few days were certainly the toughest. Within 10 minutes I wanted to give up. I became restless and uncomfortable. Thoughts of my real life, out ‘there’ somewhere, kept jumping into my mind – excitement of a strange and unusual place full of new sights, smells and sounds. Of course it’s nearly impossible to suddenly sit down for an hour at a time staring at your navel when you’ve never done this before. I took a break after 10 minutes. Ten minutes became fifteen. Then more breaks, sitting silently while around me in the small temple where others sitting motionless and oblivious to me as they too ‘wound down’ the clock.

It wasn’t long before my mind began to become philosophical I guess. I thought about how fast paced our lives are and how obvious it becomes when you can’t even get through ten minutes of nothingness. By the end of the day I was suffering some pretty strong emotions. I was already dreaming up excuses and lies on how to make an early exit from the retreat without losing face. At the end of the session no one spoke to each other, as you would on a conventional camp, for that would simply ‘fill your mind with garbage’ as one of the junior monks had aptly put it. It was a lonely task. There was no ‘break out’ relief, just the dull anti-climax of returning silently to the rock hard floor of my claustrophobic 8 square feet kuti in the forest.

So why would anyone put themselves through this unpleasant ordeal. The answer to this would take a few days yet to arrive, and by now I was counting hours in boredom – there were still five whole days left of this. But the first glimpse of appreciation is the moring meal you take after the abbot and monks have helped themselves. There is a heircarchy here and women eat last, it’s nothing personal but Buddhist establishments are strictly traditional. I’ve never been an avid vegetarian but this simple food never tasted so good. When you’re seated and inactive all day your apetite fades anyway. After breakfast we each had an assigned chore and herein lies another meditation lesson.

“Like this” the junior monk shows me kindly, with a genuine smile. He demonstrates the sweeping motion of the broom. I notice his meditative focus, the way he deliberates on the patch of leaves beneath him, and I start to understand the concentration he places on the steady movement of the handle and the small perfect path it leaves on the ground. I realise that my mind had been on rock music as I absently swished away. Later, in a moment of further contemplation I realised that his smile wasn’t a deliberate act of friendship to gain my interest, but a concerted effort of focus to keep positive and happy and it reminded me of the grinning face of the Dalai Lama on the cover of his books. Then I realised that this too was a distraction of thought and I returned my attention to the leaves. Now I was beginning to get it.

Day three and I was beginning to get used to the endless hours of sitting motionless. Everything improves with practice and so it was that I could now shut out everything from my thoughts for long periods. My existence had become boring, my outside world forgotten and now I was beginning to feel the benefit of meditation. Ajarn now began to unravel his cryptic lessons, as if it was all methodically planned. He explained that our minds are endlessly challenged by the influence of thoughts. They arise from the experiences around us and we find ourselves thinking about anything but the present moment.

Ah, ‘the present moment’. Now there’s a key element of meditation. In my ‘pre-retreat’ interest I had taken the time to read up about Buddhist meditation and ‘living in the present moment’ seemed to be a central theme. Ajarn was right of course. We spend our lives deaydreaming on memories or future wishes and we fail to concentrate fully on what we are presently doing. We make mistakes, forget things, say and do wrongly to those around us. His morning lecture – as we sat at his feet like kindergarten children – was certainly astute. He let us with the thought of ‘remaining mindful at all times’.

And so the days ticked by, with mindfulness uppermost in our minds, so that we had little room for anything else going on around us. Soon we were to even learn walking meditation as a tool for the Vippasana Buddhist meditation techniques we were practicing. So mindful were we, that we end up spending long periods simply concentrating on our walking, each movement of the feet, the feeling of grass against our soles, the pace of movement – counted out in fours – and above all, an empty mind focused on a single present movement.

If I had expected some kind of peaceful, friendly, relaxing course, then I was wrong. Getting through the week wasn’t easy but I succeeded where several others failed. Every day another of the kutis around me became empty as others gave in and left early. Others, I came to learn, spent a whole month there. The cost was minimal, just a small donation, but the basic facilities were clean and hygienic. All I arrived with was two sets of lose white cotton clothes and some toiletries.

Finally, by the fifth and sixth day I was achieving almost 10 hours of proper meditation, mixing the various techniques we had been taught. All monks arise at 4am to begin, and so it was with us. Sitting silently in your kuti meditating in the dark takes a little courage and discipline but by sunrise you certainly feel like you have achieved something. After breakfast the walking meditation would help us get focused, then there would be seated meditation and maybe group meditation and chanting in the evenings, using the mantras we had been taught. Of course, along the way we learnt some valuable lessons in Buddhism to help understand the nature of human emotions, but never did the religion encroach on our own personal beliefs. Even when we returned to our beds we were encouraged to meditate on our every movements. And so, gradually, we descended deeper into an understanding of our true selves, my emotions became more settled and any fear, anxiety or negativity I had brought with me seemed to fade. Thai culture guide

On a bright sunny morning, after a final chat with Ajarn, I checked out. There was nothing ceremonious about it. Together with four others we silently filed out of the temple grounds and into a waiting mini-bus. We spoke little – I for one was cherishing the noticeably peaceful demeanor – and took away with us a unique and rewarding experience. I recall the lovely silence in the temple, the sense of space and expanse of lawn. The was the large Bodhi tree and simple forest temple, clearly designed for low key practical use. I noticed all these things now, there was time for this as I had little else on my mind. At last I felt I could really see. And despite the tough challenge of spending a week on a meditation retreat I really had no regrets I had done this.

As the majority of the country’s population are practicing Theravada Buddhists, one of the most prominent sights around Thailand from Bangkok to Chiang Mai are the tiered rooftops of grand temples (known as wats).

Thanks to its combination of such fascinating culture with a low cost of living, Thailand attracts thousands of backpackers each year, with numerous hostels in Thailand providing cheap accommodation for travelers exploring the country’s sights.

Bangkok

Often the first point of call for backpackers in Thailand, the hectic modern surface of the capital city, Bangkok, conceals a history that’s bound up with its numerous impressive temples.

Home to the country’s most famous attraction, the Grand Palace, Bangkok is at the heart of the Thai Kingdom and its cultural heritage. In the grounds of the Palace complex lies Wat Phra Kaeo, or the Temple of the Emerald Buddha – Thailand’s most sacred site.

Whilst the Emerald Buddha is small in size, it’s often considered to be the most important image in Thailand. Moved to its current location in 1784, legend places its origins in India with years of Southeast Asia fighting around (and over) it in between.

In addition to this celebrated image, there are paintings and figures inside the wat which depict the mythology of Ramakien, the Thai version of the Hindu epic of the hero Rama.

Just to the south of the Grand Palace, the dazzling Wat Pho is also a popular attraction in Bangkok. The oldest temple in the city, it dates back to the 17th century and is famous for its huge reclining Buddha.

With regards to a place to stay, there are a number of hostels in Bangkok offering both cheap private rooms and dorms to travelers exploring these stunning sights. Many of the best (and most affordable) hostels are situated in Banglamphu, a hub for travelers in the city and in easy reach of the Grand Palace.

However, these temples are just part of Bangkok’s rich history – other highlights include the Wat Mangkon Kamalawat, beautifully decorated with Chinese dragons, and the large Wat Arun, one of the city’s most distinctive landmarks.

Old Sukhothai

North of Bangkok, the ruins of the walled city of Sukhothai lie on Thailand’s central plains. Easily accessible by bus via the modern settlement nearby, there are also some convenient hostels in the vicinity.

Dating back to the 13th century, the city originally housed around 40 separate temples. Today, the most important site is the large Wat Mahathat, surrounded by a moat and filled with the remains of many of Sukhothai’s ancient monuments.

Chiang Mai

Heading further north, public transport whisks backpackers on to Chiang Mai. This laidback and old-fashioned city is an intriguing sight in itself, although it’s mainly a center for hilltribe trekking in the mountains which surround it.

The beautiful Wat Phra Singh is the city’s must-see temple with its exemplary 19th century Lanna architecture, interior murals and gilded roof pediment. To the east sit the ruins of Wat Chedi Luang, once home to the Emerald Buddha, but destroyed by an earthquake in 1545.

Wat Phu Tok

Thailand’s least visited region, the northeastern province of Issan is home to Wat Phu Tok, a stunning retreat perched on the rocky outcrops of the red hills to the east of Nong Khai.

Built by meditation master Phra Ajaan Juen, it winds itself into the cliffs with wooden walkways that represent the seven levels of Buddhist enlightenment. The top level, on the flat of the hill, is in the midst of an overgrown forest.

Although it’s best reached by car, Wat Phu Tok is also accessible by bus from Bung Kan or the nearest town, Ban Siwilai, where there are also a handful of budget hotels providing beds for backpackers exploring the region.

His Majesty the King was once asked ‘What is your favourite food? and his simple answer was ‘rice!’ Indeed rice is the foundation of the Thai Kingdom, and if ever there was a fitting theme for a resort environment in Thailand a rice paddy is it. To sit among five star service gazing out at a terraced fields, accompanied by the sound of water softly trickling through the delicately crafted canals and dykes, must surely be the quintessential rural Asian experience.

There is nothing romantic about the back-breaking work of rice harvesting but the newest Mandarin Oriental resort has turned a peasant pre-occupation into a wonderfully themed experience, where the cereal bowls of the nation blend effortlessly with ultimate luxury. As wine glasses tinkle and Lanna-costumed staff pad quietly about on teak ‘al fresco’ decks, guests of the Dhara Dhevi in Chiang Mai are treated to a resort experience quite unlike anything the international hospitality industry has ever seen before. For sheer effect it rivals the Palace of the Lost City in South Africa’s Sun City complex, or the Atlantis sea-themed resort on Nassau’s paradise island, and sets a new benchmark for cultural ambience among Thailand’s hotels. Guide to Chiang Mai hospitality

But there’s so much more to the grounds than the pretty rice terraces that lie beneath the main breakfast deck and swimming pool area. The sprawling 60 acres of this extraordinary hotel boast more than 10,000 trees and saplings, each one specially brought in to cover a landscape that was, quite ironically, formerly a rice field. It has been a commendable undertaking over the past four years to transform waterlogged fields into an established garden that boast enormous ficus trees and towering 15-year old coconut palms. And at its heart is a patina of green -the working rice field, complete with local farmers employed for effect.

At a cost of $800m the hotel has been developed on a Lanna and Burmese theme, recreating temples, palaces and royal villas in the grandest of style. But it is the gardens that really provide the character and wonderful tropical atmosphere. Giant rain trees (Samanea saman) and colourful flamboyants (Delonix regia) recreate the charming character of Chiang Mai, while masses of heliconia foliage add a tropical feel. The grounds are an attraction themselves, covered in water features, glades populated with grazing deer and endless rows of frangipangi trees (Plumeria obtusa) to provide a dazzling display of flora. You can choose a secluded villa with its own private garden and pond, or stay among the purpose built ‘vegetable garden’. The soon to be completed colonial wing boasts rolling lawns fronting a pretty lake, while the prime villa locations are those that sit on the edge of the pretty amphitheatre of rice terraces.

Nominated on the Conde Nast Traveller Hotel hotlist for 2006 and voted ‘Hideaway of the Year’ by Andrew Harper’s Hideaway Report, The Dhara Dhevi magnificently recreates the glorious past of Chiang Mai’s Lanna Kingdom. Typified by architectural lyricism and distinct wealth, this Northern Kingdom thrived during the 14th and 15th centuries and was considered one of the first civilised kingdoms of Siam. With Chiang Mai as it’s capital, Lanna attracted the region’s best artisans from as far and wide as Lanchang (Laos) and Pagan (Burma), leaving an incredible legacy of craftsmanship which the architects of the Dhara Dhevi have faithfully reproduced in astonishing detail. At the entrance are a series of Northern temples replicated from famous viharns in Lampang. They are so authentic that they drew the ire of pious locals who protested the copying of their sacrilegious Buddhist landmarks.

The spa pavilion, located at the heart of the resort, is an incredible work of art modelled on a Shan styled palace with its multi-tiered roof finished in delicate teak filigree. Other vernacular styles such as Thai Lue and Haw Luang have been borrowed from for inspiration, and the soaring spires of the main lobby building peek above the tree tops and can be seen from all over the resort. Full Chiang Mai travel guide

To create this, conceptual designer Rachen Intawong assembled a team of fellow graduates from the Department of Fine Art at Chiang Mai University to study the Lanna style in detail. ‘We are not just building a resorts’ he says, ‘we are aiming to create a legend’.

‘For me this is a place where we can create the past and let people touch history’. Since graduating several years ago, this surprisingly young architect has made Lanna historic architecture and art his passion, expanding his interest to the greater Mekhong region. He spends his time travelling to remote villages or sites and reading ancient books to seek out rare or lost styles, in order to deeply understand the long lost glory of Lanna.

The Kingdom eventually fell to the Burmese in 1558, and they sacked the capital, destroying many of the fine teak royal villas in the process, so that only the sturdy temples remain from its hey day. With the aid of a wealthy philanthropic investor, The Dhara Dhevi Company has been able to recreate a luxury that has long since been forgotten in the region.

‘There was no master plan’ Khun Intawong admits, ‘It was more like a jigsaw puzzle, just like the city of Chiang Mai, we built it up over a long period, it was a natural growth process’.

Located a 10 minute drive from the city centre in the Sankhampeng district, the hotel is certainly an environmentally low-impact development thanks to the gardens and flora that have transformed the neighbourhood. A team of 70 grounds staff, under the supervision of ‘Khun Jack’, have been responsible for landscaping the entire 60 acres, including undulating levels, a complex water management system that provides a network of canals and streams, and the transplanting of dozens of 40 foot trees.

The largest of these are the stately kapok trees (Bombax ceiba) – with their lofty upright trunks that create a timeless tree-lined lane leading to the spa and current reception area. Inspiration for this likely came from the well known avenue of trees that lines most of the 35km Chiang Mai-Lamphun road. The hundreds of giant Yaang Naa trees that flank either side of this road are centuries old and purported to have been planted by a Lanna prince in an unsuccessful effort to woo a girl from Lampun. Antiquity is the essence of the Dhara Dhevi, and without aged trees the effect simply wouldn’t be complete. However, transplanting 30 year old rain trees, with their enormous canopies, is complicated by the sheer size of their root systems. “Since creating the ‘Kingdom’ needs a lot of big trees to replant around the resort we didn’t have time to wait that long for them grow” says Khun Jack, who oversaw the process. “Replanting old big trees is the biggest challenge. We had difficulty to keep them alive.” Replanting a big tree causes damages, and the older trees are weakened when moved”, he explained.

Yet they have succeeded. The showpiece nutmeg tree (Myristica fragrans), in front of the spa is one they are particularly proud of transplanting, and it’s ancient twisted form resembles a prop from Lord of the Rings. Even a medium sized banyan tree (Ficus annulata) has been placed near the colonial suites. But the magnificent giant banyan specimens that stand sentinel at the main gate – some 30 feet in diameter with hundreds of aerial roots – are originals. Some rare trees have also been included, such as the Sal trees (Shorea robusta) and Bombay Laurel (Codiaeum variegatum).

It all combines to create a wonderfully natural environment that guarantees guests their privacy, and blends in well with Northern Thailand’s wilderness appeal. For added authenticity they have recreated a typical Thai styled house of a well-to-do farmer, dismantling a teak relic from nearby Lamphun and rebuilding it complete with humble antiques and local villagers who sit about all day weaving baskets for effect. It’s all part of a pro-active theme where you can shake off your bourgeoisie guilt by learning a traditional craft for a token half hour while the kids get their hands dirty planting rice.

There are several themed sections to the resort, with accommodation ranging from colonial suits to private villas with their own garden, jacuzzi and pool, or even the multi-roomed luxury pavilions that mimic palatial Burmese palace quarters. With each comes a private butler service, state-of-the-art multi-media systems (and individual CD/DVD library), and a host of standard services that accompany five star luxury. In addition there is an enormous spa staffed by dedicated specialists in Ayurvedic and other popular treatments. Recent guests have included HRH Prince Albert of Monaco, HRH Prince Andrew, the Duke of York, His Majesty King Letsie III of Swaziland, Colin Powell US Secetary of state, tennis star Maria Sharapova and violin vurtuoso Vanessa Mae.

With rooms starting from US$390 a night, the Dhara Dhevi might just be an experience out of most people’s reach. However, the resort complex has five restaurants open to the public, and for a luxurious, yet affordable, evening you get a peek at this exclusive other-worldly ‘theme park’. The Fujian Restaurant serves up a good value ‘all you can eat’ spread of Cantonese dim sum for 500 baht (lunch only), and is located at the Kad Dhara – a gentrified replica of a turn-of-the-century Siamese trading street. Across the parking area is The Grand Lanna, an alfresco and sala venue serving excellent Thai and Asian fusion food in a lush traditional Lanna garden environment.

Visitors to the north of Thailand will quickly notice that the word ‘Lanna’ is used to tout everything from massage parlours to coffee; one of the most prominent usages being tourist-orientated ‘events’ such as Khantoke dinners and Lanna dancing shows that masquerade as the proud traditions of the region.

This commercial opportunism in the guise of authenticity is a shame since the real Lanna culture never rose to such prominence compared with its Khmer neighbours, for example. This modern codswallop is effectively taking the region’s name in vain while we are all too ill-informed to know true Lanna from the packaged version.

The area known as Lanna covers a fairly wide geographical space and a wide array of native tribal cultures. Looking at the clothing of the hill tribes, you can see who has borrowed what style from whom and which formerly separate groups have merged. These people wear their homelands on their sleeves, literally. This must be studied carefully however, as these days the percentage of people wearing their true ‘colours’ in Chaing Mai are few and far between.

The ancient kingdom spread from Shan state of eastern Burma, across Yunnan province in southern China and into the western valleys of Laos. What is now referred to as northern Thailand was in fact the epicentre of Lanna, formerly known as Sip Song Panna: the land of a thousand rice fields, an agrarian utopia. Chiang Mai history in brief

The citizens of Lanna have always been farmers, the population comprised of extensive pockets of hill tribes that spread throughout the mountainous terrain and the most fertile flatlands. The region’s specialty crop was and still is a special rice grain grown only on Lanna turf, that when steamed becomes viscid and glutinous, known as ‘sticky rice’. The citizens of Lanna, the land of a thousand rice fields, are the sticky rice eaters.

So fertile is the land in Lanna, that farmers can grow two crops of rice a year, meaning the work-year totals to about four months, leaving plenty of time to digest the notoriously heavy sticky rice. Modern observers of this lineage may even equate the easy-going nature of the Lanna people to the fact that they’re often too full of sticky rice to be very active or ambitious.

Even today in Chaing Mai, the former capital of the Lanna kingdom, founded in 1262, the people’s heritage shines through. The Three King’s Monument in the old town is a rallying point of history honouring King Mengrai and his two royal friends from Phrae and Sukhothai. Their relaxed nature makes life here seem a laid-back affair, but try and do business here and the ‘sabai sabai’ lifestyle will demand some lessons in patience. Introduction to Chiang Mai culture

Religion runs deep in Lanna, with Theravada Buddhism complementing the animistic worship of the people. On each side of the Buddha in any number of temples in northern Thailand, you’ll see two hanging pieces of oblong-shaped fabric. These are animistic totems to dead ancestors, who are venerated in every home of the kingdom.

If you visit a Lanna family and there are many guests, as a foreigner you may find yourself sleeping under a shrine full of melted candle wax and photos of dead family members. Superstition runs high here, and a Thai would think twice before sleeping in the prayer room, especially if they’ve had a few whiskies after dinner, which means you may have the place to yourself.

Anyone who has been to Thailand before will have seen the spirit houses placed outside homes and businesses. The bigger the business, the bigger the shrine, and there are a few outside shopping malls and hotels that may provoke you to ask: at what physical size does sentiment fade into garish ostentation?

Perhaps one reason Thailand and its people are so smiley and friendly is that besides the fact that they are generally a good natured bunch due to their relatively peaceful history, they have never been colonised by a foreign power. The English had Burma and the French had Laos and Vietnam, making the Lanna paradigm all the more pure in Thailand.

The contemporary north is still the best place to explore the history of Lanna culture, even if the region is in danger of distorting its true heritage into something unrecognisable from the real thing.

With over seven centuries of history and traditions, Thailand is one of the most intriguing and exciting destinations in all of Asia. It is the capital Bangkok that leads the way in culture, art and vibrancy in Thailand. It would take several trips to explore all of the wonderful cultural attractions in this bustling metropolis, but here are a few of the ‘must-sees’ that visitors can fit into a one day tour.

A tour of Bangkok would not be complete without visiting the most famous structure in Thailand, the Grand Palace. The palace served as the official residence of the king of Thailand from the 18th century to the mid-20th century and is filled with an impressive collection of elaborate temples and other impressive structures. The design of the palace includes spectacular roof lines and elegant adornments. More on the Grand Palace.

This wonderful structure is also home to one of the countries greatest treasures, the Emerald Buddha. Tickets to the Grand Palace are not expensive and include admission to the Vimanmek Golden Teak Mansion, the largest teak mansion in the world.

Wat Pho is the oldest working temple in Bangkok as well as its largest. Situated adjacent to the Grand Palace, not only can visitors explore the grounds, they can also receive an invigorating Thai massage here as the temple is home to Thailand’s most prominent school of massage and herbal medicine.

At the temple, you can also pay a visit to the renowned Reclining Buddha, the largest Buddha in Thailand. This colossal monument makes for excellent photo opportunities. Those wishing to increase their luck or make merit can place coins in the pots along the wall behind the Buddha image and make a wish.

The Dusit Zoo is situated directly across the road from Vimanmek Mansion in the once private garden of King Rama V, who was responsible for commissioning the mansion. The zoo houses over 1,300 animals including several rare species and is worth a visit whether you are travelling with children or not.

The city has a few fascinating museums on offer. The National Museum is just a short walk from the Grand Palace grounds and is the largest museum in Southeast Asia. The museum houses exquisite exhibits of traditional Thai art and a plethora of historical artefacts from Neolithic times. The Royal Barges Museum is located on the opposite bank of the Chao Phraya River and has eight royal barges on display. More on museums in Bangkok.

Visitors touring the city at the weekend should not miss an opportunity to visit the Chatuchak Weekend Market. This is one of the largest outdoor markets in the world and offers over 15,000 vendor stalls. Keep in mind that shopping in this maze is not for the faint-hearted. Although you can find incredible bargains, the market is jam-packed with eager shoppers all trying to get treasures at a bargain price. The market can be conveniently reached by Sky Train. Visitors should take the train to Mo Chit and then follow the signs to the market. The area is also accessible by taxi and bus; however, traffic around the market can be bad.

By early evening, you will need to refill your energy supply. Luckily, you won’t have to search very far for Thai food outlets as they are on virtually every corner. There is also an abundance of Western food options. If you head to Chinatown (just east of Hualamphong Station) you will find a wide selection of eateries as well as plenty of temples and Chinese shop-houses.

While in Chinatown, a visit to Wat Trai Mit should not be missed. The most famous attraction in the temple is the Golden Buddha, which is made of solid gold and weighs five and a half tons.

If you have any time left, you may want to make a visit to the Damnernsaduok floating market to the west of Bangkok, in the Rajaburi Province. Other notable attractions include the Jim Thompson House, the Crocodile Farm and the Rose Garden, a beautiful country resort that gives a wonderful glimpse into Thai culture and includes folk songs and dance. More on the outlying attractions.

Visitors to Chiang Mai in Northern Thailand come for the quaint, unhurried pace of life, the bargain shopping and the potential to break out on retreats into the mountains and jungle with a trekking trip. Whatever your reason for coming, Chiang Mai promises plenty of opportunities for excitement, relaxation and historic journeys into the city’s past.

A trip to Mae Sa
A 30–minute drive to Mae Sa is a fun event for the entire family, as the area is packed with activities. Tourists venture out for the orchid nurseries; the well–known Elephant Camp where visitors can ride elephants and watch performances including a football match played by elephants; a snake farm and bungee jumping. Finally, the Mae Sa Waterfall offers a place to relax or perhaps go hiking.

Chiang Mai Night Bazaar
Chiang Mai is well–known for its handicrafts, silk and large markets. This all comes to a focus at the Chiang Mai Night Bazaar, a veritable shopper’s dream. Stretching the entire length of Chang Klan road, this market has become more of a tourist’s domain than it once was. Here you’ll find an assortment of jewellery, clothing, antiques, silver, all manners of souvenirs and knock–off designer items. It’s open every evening until midnight. This is where you’ll find many of Chiang Mai hotels.

Doi Inthanon National Park
Situated south of Chiang Mai, Doi Inthanon National Park is a unique wildlife preserve and often makes for a comfortable cool weather retreat after spending time in the city. It’s the tallest mountain in Thailand at a grand height of 8,415 feet. Camping is permitted in the park and the natural surroundings make for an excellent getaway. This is one of the best places for trekking in Northern Thailand.

Wat Phratat Doi Suthep
Overlooking the Old City of Chiang Mai, the mountain of Doi Suthep holds one of Thailand’s most sacred temples. The 300–stair climb leads you to the large chedi and golden spire. This large temple complex dates back to the 14th century and the view of the city achieved from the marble courtyard is worth the trip alone. No trip to Chiang Mai is complete without visiting Doi Suthep. Ask the concierge at the hotels for assistance getting up there, it’s one of the most important in Thailand.

Thai massage and spas
Places to get a massage can literally be found on almost every street of the Old City, and prices range depending on quality and accessibility. Thai massage is world–renown, and some of the most skilled masseurs can be found in the more upscale spas, which also offer body scrubs and detox and beautification treatments. Even at these high–end facilities, the money spent is still fantastic value when compared to the superb quality of the treatment. Chiang Mai massage guide

Chiang Mai Zoo
Don’t be surprised if a local asks you if you’ve visited the zoo yet–most likely, they’re wondering if you’ve seen the pair of pandas which are on loan from China, an endless source of pride for locals. These are only two of the more than 6,000 animals on display at the zoo which sits at the base of Suthep Mountain, from where there are wonderful views of the city.

Courses and training
Chiang Mai overflows with all sorts of courses in which tourists can enrol for only a few days or weeks at a time. Due to the affordable prices and the comfortable atmosphere in Chiang Mai, visitors are tempted to dig in and stay a while. So whether you’re looking to learn the art of Thai massage, perfect your Thai cooking skills or study Thai boxing, you’ll find it here for every level and length of time. When in Thailand this is highly recommended.

The Old City
A tour of the Old City is easily done on foot or by bike, and is the best way to come face–to–face with Chiang Mai’s legacy. Portions of the old wall were restored in the 19th century, and the 700–year–old moat that surrounds the city has been beautifully preserved. The city gates have also been restored, and each marks an important commercial avenue in or out of the city. Temples are spread across the entire Old City, and some of the more important include Wat Chedi Luang, Wat Phrasingh and Wat Chiang Mai.

Adventure sports
Any number of adventure sports can be organised through travel agencies in Chiang Mai. Some of the more popular outings include white–water rafting on the Mae Tang River, which is 1 hour, 30 minute drive out of town; mountain biking on Doi Suthep with the added bonus of spending time at the temple if you make it all the way to the top, and rock climbing at Crazy Horse Buttress. There’s also an outdoor climbing wall located to one side of the Night Bazaar. Trekking in Chiang Mai is perhaps the biggest drawcard

Trekking Northern Thailand
It’s impossible to list the major attractions of Chiang Mai without mentioning trekking. Tour guide operators use the city as a springboard from which to organise trips into the surrounding mountainous jungles. Complete guide to Northern Thailand. Expeditions are packed with a variety of activities and range from daytrips to several night journeys that include hiking, elephant riding and bamboo rafting. Routes are planned around hill tribe villages, where overnight accommodation is provided. Trekking is the best way to see rural Northern Thailand.

Most visitors to Chiang Mai head straight to the temples and to the surrounding mountains to see the hill tribes. The culture in Northern Thailand may be defined by the excellent trekking and historic sites, but one of the greatest attractions for a growing number of people is the excellent shopping at the Baan Tawai craft centre located just to the south of the city. There are many good cultural souvenirs, handicrafts and home d�cor items to choose from here.

The famous Chiang Mai Night Bazaar is probably the most popular destination for visitors looking for handicrafts to take back home. It’s common for most people to buy far more than they had planned, with a huge choice of goods from interesting art and sculptures through to beautiful silk clothes and lamp shades. What most of these people don’t realise is that it’s possible to find all of these products and at cheaper prices at Baan Tawai.

The area has long been an artisan centre, but with the growth in tourism over the last several years, Baan Tawai has expanded considerably. It now boasts a completely new wing and features several arcades of small shops and stalls. There are also larger shops found on the road leading to the centre which sell outdoor ceramics, furniture and antiques. A number of overseas buyers regularly visit the centre to purchase items in bulk for their outlets abroad. Chiang Mai shopping agent

In Chiang Mai if you are looking for souvenir shopping, then it is definitely worth your while spending some time here. The products on offer are the cheapest you will find in Thailand and include wall hangings, antique reproductions, silk, candles, incense, soap gift packs, bamboo products, frames, vases, ornaments and a whole lot more.

You can probably find some of the items for sale in the tourist areas in Phuket, Pattaya and Bangkok, but the prices are significantly higher and the choice much smaller. Many of the products at Baan Tawai are handmade from natural materials and are unique to this part of Thailand.

There are lots of skilled artisans at work in Chiang Mai, and one of their favourite materials to work with is wood. They produce some fine Buddhist art pieces, d�cor items, carved figurines and wall hangings. The range continues to grow according to demand, and some of the latest pieces feature striking contemporary designs.

Teak furniture is also very popular and can be found at several shops, which will happily make items to order. Don’t be deterred by the task of trying to fit everything into your luggage, as there are professional packing and shipping companies who will take care of everything for you in Chiang Mai

However, you don’t have to buy anything to enjoy a visit here, as it’s fun looking around and seeing the artisans practising their skills. They are very gifted and have considerable experience weaving rattan, painting, carving busts, colouring figurines and applying delicate lacquer work. Something else worth looking out for at Baan Tawai is the beautiful tropical gardens that can be found in front of many of the shops. As is the case throughout Chiang Mai, the locals take pride in creating impressive displays, gardens, water features and small ponds. Wholesale handicraft shopping

A lot of visitors are also attracted by the Asian antiques, which are among the finest in the world. Chiang Mai has become established as a centre not only for original pieces, but also for impressive looking copies. When you consider how much you would pay for an original 18th century antique, you could furnish your entire apartment with some very authentic looking reproductions for the same price.

The market is growing in size as more people are opting for artworks that simply look old. Some of the customers include the country’s most expensive hotels in Phuket and Samui. The production process includes burying newly–made pieces soaked in acid to shorten the aging period. Among the fake antiques on offer are Buddha figurines, Burmese masks, bronze bowls and pewter items.

Thai handicrafts are beautifully crafted, excellent value for money and can be found wherever you go in the world. The distinctive styles show up in flea markets and decor shops in the most unexpected of places. You may not intend to do much shopping on your visit, but once you get here, you will probably find yourself buying extra luggage to carry your new possessions home!

Thai handicrafts wholesale

Located beside the lovely lush Ta Chine river near Bangkok is the complete Thai experience, designed to give tourists an unforgettable introduction to Thailand. The Rose Garden is a lot more than the name suggests, offering 75 acres of tropical gardens, a Thai cultural centre and show, golf course, accommodation in traditional lakeside Thai teak houses and six restaurants to suit all budgets.

Not surprisingly it’s a popular destination for day trips from Bangkok and is included on itineraries to the touristy Floating Market West of the city. First-timers to Thailand are given an intriguing and charming first impression of the Kingdom with a visit to this well maintained attraction.

The Rose Garden is just one hour’s drive from Bangkok, though most visitors arrive after an early morning visit to the popular Floating Market on the canals of Damnoen Saduak, 40kms to the Southwest. Bangkok day trips. It began as private rose garden in the weekend retreat of a former Bangkok mayor in the sixties. His wife whose visionary interest in creating a landscaped tropical garden, laid the foundation for one of Thailand’s more famous estates.

Over the years it has expanded, adding a golf course, and Thai cultural village to attract tour groups. Ironically, the rose garden after which it is named is now only a minor attraction given that the climate and soil eventually proved unsuitable to sustain a world class collection. However, it was host to the world Orchid exhibition in 1978 and over the years the coconut and other palms have grown lofty and provide the shade for all sorts of tropical varieties that can be wandered among.

But the main reason the tour buses stop by is for the Thai cultural village, elephant show and culture show. Here visitors can witness first-hand the various Thai traditions such as cooking, weaving, rice planting and milling, pottery, silk weaving, music and dance. You can even get involved and learn the basics of these ancient arts, but they are all demonstrated in the popular 45-minute culture show. Another highlight for many is the brief elephant show and a chance to ride these native beasts.

The Rose Garden is also a great place for a wedding, be it your first or a reaffirmation of vows. Apart from magnificent teak pavillions on the edge of a pretty lake, they can arrange a night in one of their luxury villas, as well as someone to officiate. The Gardens provide a pretty backdrop for a ceremony.

The Golf course, located across the highway, is an award winning links with narrow fairways and some challenging bunker placements throughout the 7,115 yard course. A hotel on site also offers standard accommodation and exercise facilities, making it an excellent conference venue.

If all this activity leaves you hungry then you can pick from Inn Chan, Vanda Pavillion, Asuka (Japanese), Rim Nam and Pae Suan Sampran restaurants or Pae Pikul sundowner cruise boat. Several are situated besides the lovely Ta Chine river which is as broad and important as the Chao Praya but without the ugly commercial river banks. The air conditioned Inn Chan is particularly interesting as it is built and named in memory of the famous Siamese Twins of the same name who were born nearby in the mid 1800s.

Guests staying over also get to visit the excellent spa, situated in a traditional Thai teak house which was uprooted from Ayuthaya and rebuilt. It offers a range of soothing packages using various materials which are sold on site in the gift shop. Guide to Bangkok highlights

Most significantly the attention to detail is noticeable here, and the organisation and presentation can be described as world class, from the friendliness of the staff to the manicured gardens, food and activities in the cultural show. Over four decades the owners have worked hard to impress the many visitors who get their first and often only full impression of Thai culture here.

Arriving in Chiang Mai, the first and most obvious feature visitors see is the huge mountain that looms over the western side of city. Nothing characterises Northern Thailand more than the mountains and at 1700m high, Doi Pui is Thailand’s eighth highest peak. Perched on a lesser peak, 1300 meters up the eastern face of this mountain sits the unmistakable site of Wat Prathat Doi Suithep. It is one of Thailand’s most revered temples and the distinctive gilded chedi and two pine trees flanking it can be seen from all over the Ping valley.

Like a guardian angel, this temple has kept a watchful spiritual eye on Chiang Mai for more than half a millennium. A temple was first established here as far back as 1383 but the choice of the site came about in 1371, supposedly by divine direction. According to legend a relic of the Lord Buddha arrived in the relatively new settlement of Chiang Mai to be enshrined in the newly built Wat Suan Dok. But the relic split in two and the second piece was placed on the back of an elephant which apparently headed for Doi Suithep. After three days of wandering the elephant came upon the site of the present day temple and promptly died. Today the relic is said to buried under the 16 meter chedi that forms the centre of the complex.

Visitors to the temple arrive via an exhausting 200 step stair case that is lined by lengthy symbolic nagas (mythical snakes). A short funicular rail is also available for those who aren’t too fit. The inner sanctum of the temple complex is one of the classic images of Chiang Mai and the North. After removing your shoes you enter a sacred courtyard of marbled floor with the gilded chedi occupying the centre. It is always busy and the sight of Thai pilgrims making merit and praying at the designated altars, their hands clasping an offering of incense sticks and a lotus bud as they make an offering to the Buddha, is an unforgettable impression of Thailand. Look again, and you notice devotees walking slowly around the chedi in a clockwise fashion — three circumnavigations — as is the tradition at important temples like this. Doi Suthep tourist information

There is plenty of activity in this courtyard and lots of photo taking, but if you wander around you will find cloisters line the perimeter contain numerous bronze Buddha images lined up in perfect symmetry. Two ornate Viharn are to be found at the east and west sides of the cloister and in these small covered enclosures you will find a seated monk who offers blessings to visitors of all religions. This entails sitting cross-legged and receiving a short prayer and ‘splash’ of holy water. A symbolic piece of string is also tied to the wrists of those who remain.

The temple has been continuously developed over the centuries and much of the present temple grounds took shape in 1805 under the regent Chao Kawila, who was responsible for wrestling the city back from Burmese control. At this time the extensive murals were added to the cloister walls. The chedi itself is fenced off and four ornately decorated five-tiered traditional Thai umbrellas stand at each corner, each with important symbolism.

Outside of the main courtyard is a second level, which is more relaxed, and doesn’t carry the strict dress code of the inner sanctum. You may wear your shoes once more and return the ‘borrowed’ clothing that is available for those who are inappropriately dressed. One of the highlights of this area is the stunning views of the Ping river valley and Chiang Mai city from a viewing area. However there are plenty of other intriguing attractions here, such as the row of bells and gongs along the sanctuary wall, which visitors like to perpetually ring (some believe for good fortune). There is also a statue of the elephant that helped found the site, as well as that of Wisuthep Rishi — a hermit who gave his name to the mountain.

There is also much more to Doi Suithep than the temple. Of course, with every tourist site in Thailand comes a cluster of frenzied commercialism and the parking lot of the temple is lined with restaurants and vendors, which supports a small community that lives up here on the mountain. More vendors, selling souvenirs and handy crafts are found at the base of the 200 steps and you’ll find yourself swamped by ladies trying to sell you pictures and prints, they can be a little persistent but aren’t too aggressive.

Until 1935 pilgrims to the temple had to walk up to the Doi Suithep summit, but luckily a road was built by the highly respected monk Khru Ba Srivichai who was responsible for undertaking the renovation of more than 100 temples in the area. His legacy is now enjoyed by the thousands of Thai and foreign visitors who are whisked up to the temple in buses, ‘songteaw’ taxis and cars. It’s even popular with local cyclists who ascend the 10km route by the dozens in the cool evenings. Once a year on the full moon evening of Visaka Bucha day, thousands of locals pay their respect by walking the route.

The road up the mountain snakes it’s way through lush jungle that becomes greener as you ascend. Even in the dry season the upper reaches remain cool and temperate with a number of streams passing under the road and tumbling down the mountain side. There are plenty of places to stop and enjoy these, some are particularly popular with students of the university that is located at the mountain’s base. Having your own car or motorbike is a good idea, especially if you wish to do a bit of walking and exploring of the numerous trails. Hiring a motorcycle in Chiang Mai

Doi Suithep has several lovely waterfalls that are worth visiting too. The easiest to see is Suithep waterfall which is found at the mountain’s base and is a great picnic spot. There are several restaurants here overlooking the waterfall and it’s popular with Thai families on weekends. At the entrance to the waterfall you will be able to appreciate just how important Khru Ba Srivichai was as a monk. A statue of him receives plenty of attention from Thai pilgrims who make a mandatory offering to his legacy before proceeding up the hill. Get your camera out as this is a wonderful opportunity to witness Thais in action with their Buddhist beliefs, and the atmosphere is typified by the smell of incense and sight of ladies hawking lotus leaves.

Further up the road are several smaller waterfalls beside the road where you can stop and relax, but the most impressive is Monthathan — about a third of the way up. A national parks fee of 200 baht for foreigners applies here, and the ticket is valid in the Mae Rim valley and other waterfalls in the area for the duration of the day. If you really love waterfalls — and Thailand certainly has it’s fair share of them — then this one is worth seeing after and during the rainy season and could keep you busy for an hour or more. You’d better be a little fit too as it consists of several tiers which have some severely steep paths leading to them. There is a pleasant but steep sealed 5km road to the waterfall, where you will find a lovely camping and picnic area. Some of the more adventurous even make it up to a pretty and isolated second waterfall further up the jungle trail.

Doi Suithep is certainly one of Chiang Mai’s highlights and should be on every visitor’s list. The national park is a superb environment of towering trees and lush forest, and offers a refreshing change from the busy city below.

Does the idea of eating some of northern Thailand’s tastiest specialties while enjoying the graceful movements of beautiful women dancing with candles sound like a good night out? Then don’t miss the chance to catch the unique dinner-dance combination known as Khantoke while you’re visiting the Rose of the North.

Chiang Mai is famous throughout the kingdom for its incredible cuisine and rich Lanna culture. But did you know you can experience the best of both these worlds in one evening at a Khantok dinner? Many visitors dismiss Khantoke venues as overpriced tourist traps, but nothing could be farther from the truth. Unless you’ve got a local friend guiding you around Chiang Mai, you won’t find a better representation of true Lanna cuisine than at a Khantoke dinner.

Guests will be treated to northern-style dishes in traditional Thai fashion by sitting on the floor and eating off large low round tables known as toke. While you sample the many dishes offered, skilled dancers will perform traditional Lanna dances such as fon lep (finger dancing), ram dab (sword dancing), and fon thean (candle dancing). Truly skilled cultural performers like those employed by Chiang Mai’s leading Khantoke venues are a dying breed, so whether you come for the food or the dancing, don’t pass up this unique experience.

Khantoke is a Lanna Thai tradition, not something cooked up to lure in tourists. The name Khantoke refers to the low round teak wood table used to hold the food, and its origins can be traced back to 1953 when Ajarn Kraisee Nimmanahaeminda held a dinner party for some important guests. She brought in traditionally dressed singers and dancers to add some flair to the evening, which was so well-received that she turned it into a regular event. Even among average Lanna people, a Khantoke meal is always served at important occasions such as weddings and graduations.

Five different Lanna dishes, accompanied by a big basket of sticky rice, are traditionally served in a Khantoke dinner. They include gaeng hung-lay (Burmese pork curry), gai tod (fried chicken), paad pugg (fried cabbage), nam prik ong (tomato, chili and minced pork dip) and keb moo (fried pork rinds). Sliced cucumber and other fresh garnishes round off the scene. You should use your fingers to pull clumps of sticky rice from the basket and scoop out a bit of each dish. However, forks and spoons are always available if this proves too challenging.

Halfway into your meal, the traditional dancing will begin. A classical Thai orchestra using time-proven musical instruments set the scene as small groups of dancers dressed in beautiful clothing move across the stage. The dances performed at a Khantoke dinner are authentic creations unique to northern Thailand. You will see them nowhere else in the kingdom. They are rooted in the history, stories and culture of this region of Thailand and are very old.

The dances range from sublime visual creations like the candle dance, where women hold tiny candle bowls in their palms as they twist and swirl around the floor, to more virulent acts such as the sword dance, performed by a single, dexterous and brave young man. Dances such as the magic fowls dance and silk reeling dance represent the folklore and daily life of traditional Lanna culture.

Even if you’ve seen a tourist dinner dance in Bangkok or elsewhere, it won’t compare to an authentic Chiang Mai Khantoke dinner performance. Even Thais from other regions make a point to enjoy these entertaining and mouthwatering evenings when they visit Chiang Mai.

There are a handful of reputable and professional Khantoke venues in Chiang Mai. The Old Chiangmai Cultural Center has been hosting these dinners for the longest, and offers an impressive selection of shows and dinner options. Khum Khantoke, housed in a magnificent and massive Lanna building, is the newest addition to the scene and has developed an excellent reputation. Other noteworthy venues include the show at the Imperial Mae Ping Hotel, and Nakorn Lanna 1296.

More on Thai culture in Chiang Mai

Information details for the venues are listed below:

Old Chiangmai Cultural Center
185/3 Wualai road, Chiang Mai, Tel: +66 53 275 097

Khum Khantoke Chiangmai Business Park
130 Moo 4, Nong Pakrung, Chiang Mai, Tel: +66 53 304 121 2

Nakorn Lanna 1296
84 Changklan road, Chiang Mai, Tel: +66 53 818 428 9

Mae Ping Khantoke (Imperial Mae Ping Hotel)
Imperial Mae Ping Hotel, Seedonchai road, Chiang Mai, Tel: +66 53 283 900