Rafting the Mae Tang can be a hair raising experience but it’s certain to be one of the most exciting things you do in Thailand.

It’s been raining cats and Buddhas for the past three days, but today the sun is already beating down on us and it’s only 10am. But it isn’t enough sun to dry out the severe mud ruts that this old Landrover is busy grinding its way through as we patiently negotiate our way up the Mae Tang river. To our left the gorge falls away steeply, carpeted in lush jungle, and at the bottom we catch glimpse of a ferocious river that tumbles out of the mountains of Northern Thailand.

“Are you sure you want to do this?” my companion asks sceptically.

“Dunno, but the jungle up here sure is pretty” I meekly respond, trying to change the topic. It took me half a day to persuade her to come whitewater rafting and then the floods came down from the mountains and left Chiang Mai under a foot of water. But our guide, Jason, assured us that he never rafts an angry river and that our patience would pay off. The waters of Typhoon Damrey are now down in the valley he explains and the river has dropped to a safe level. To prove his point, we stopped at one point nearer the river and we inspected the rocks.

“See this boulder here” he points out, “when this is above the water level, it’s safe to raft this river”. He’s internationally trained in swift water rescue so we take his word for it. But the sight of the whitewater and sheer force of the grade five rapid he showed off to us has left butterflies in my stomach.

The awesome force of the recent floods have left an obvious calling card, and the banks are littered with forest debris and strewn with a destructive muddy mess several meters higher than the present level. It’s difficult to image a river more lively than this but clearly we are seeing it at in a tamer mood.

Up at the camp the river is more relaxed, and even after the traumatic preview we have not regrets about signing up for this adventure. Sop Kai is a charming little village situated on a flat part of the river, way up this snaking valley, and all around us the jungle sings with a mid morning chorus of nature as the water glistens and the sleepy community goes about its rural business.

We’re offered some snacks and fresh mountain coffee in the cool riverside bungalow of Siam River Adventures, and left to savour the wonderful experience of being up here in the mountains. This village is far away from the tourist traps and crowded temples. It’s all part of the day’s experience, Jason promised us. I’m tempted to ask if we can skip the rafting and simply go hiking up the banks of the river, it’s so lovely here. But that would be chickening out.

Before long he has us all kitted out and launches into a serious safety briefing and impromptu tutorial on how to react to an unruly raft. “Forward paddle! Back paddle! Lean left! Right! Get down!” he yells as we practice in the eddies of this impatient river. When it’s all over he offers us a reassuring; “ don’t worry, the guides will control the craft, just follow orders and you’ll be alright.” Before the safety briefing began he made a point of checking the swift water rescue gear and dispatching his staff to the most difficult rapids, so that they are ready to throw rescue ropes. He also points out that his is the only company on this river that has safety kayakers accompanying the raft to help rescue ‘floaters’, as he calls them. We feel just a little better now.

And, with little time to ponder what we are about to embark on, the guides push us into the main current and the camp disappears immediately as gravity tugs violently at us. That initial experience of sudden unstoppable momentum is perhaps the most impressionable memory as your adrenalin gets hold of your heart. You have little chance to concentrate on anything other than the rapidly approaching water immediately in front of your craft. It’s too late to turn back now but one certain thought that screams at your sense of logic is; ‘Oh my god, what have I got myself into!’

Within minutes we hit the first major rapids. Thunderous water sound a warning, my heart rate increases even more, and then we are on top of it. “Whooooaaah” we scream as the raft plunges headlong into the grade four rapid. The acceleration is scary, and with an exhilarating rush we splash through the bottom as our raft buckles and is thrown around. A sheer adrenalin high turns to relief as we coast out the other side and enjoy a breather on a tamer stretch.

But not for long, the gradient steepens again, we bumble over some smaller rapids and continue forward, without any respite or braking.

“OK, everybody ready” our guide shouts. “lean left! Left, left, left ” he yells desperately as we all try to avoid our craft being sucked into the wrong side of an even larger rapid. “Backpaddle!” He yells even louder, as he tries to steer the craft away from the insistent draft. A big pile of debris has split the rapid, the right side definitely looks dangerous. Everything happens quickly, we’re panicking now, but instinct takes over, water pours into the right side, miraculously we narrowly avoid the tough route and with one final strong paddle from the guide we plunge down the correct chute. Chiang Mai for adventurers

My god, this is pretty stressful, I think to myself as we emerge safely below. There is spontaneously laughter and cheering, relief turns fear into enjoyment, and in a nervous sort of way I find myself starting to really enjoy this.

“Well done” the guide tells us calmly, you have passed the tough first test, those were some of the toughest, it gets easier from here” he reassures us. And he’s true to his word. Just as I was beginning to loathe any more of this, we tumble down a series of fun small rapids that prove to us that rafting this river is exciting and enjoyable.

After 20 more minutes of tamer rapids, we all – as a team – seem to have the hang of this and soon we pull up into an eddy where we are reunited with the other rafts. “Time for a breather” our guide shouts, and we all loosen our protective helmets and life jackets. The road is just above us and a train of elephants trundle by with several tourists on board. Now that’s a far more sensible way to travel, I think to myself.

Before long we set out again for the most lively stretch of the river and unbeknown to us, a nasty surprise lies ahead. We hit the next rapid, a grade five with a name that sounds like something out of a violent Playstation game. This one is practically a small waterfall and as we hit the bottom the raft flips and into the water we all go. Pandemonium strikes. I recall seeing the swift water rescue guard standing on a nearby rock with safety rope ready but chaos reigns as I hold my breath and try, in a panic, to remember the safety advice. The water is keeping me under but I hold my breath and allow the water to ‘wash me out’ of the rapid. Sure enough I find myself downstream, surfacing and trying to gain control as the powerful river spirits me away. Luckily there are no further rapids and I manage to steer myself into an eddy. Fortunately everyone has recovered and we soon regroup and rescue the rafts. Chiang Mai outdoor activities

And so the day continues as we tackle one rapid after the other, interspersed with relaxing recoveries along tamer stretches of the river from where we can admire the wonderful forested gorge around us. A few more times we manage some hair raising escapes and the adrenalin rushes are addictive, leaving us nervously wishing for more. We have overcome our fears and eventually we approach the bottom of the stretch.

“Yeah! Bring it on baby” yells one of the people in our group and each time we plunge into another rapid the girls let out a loathing scream that soon turns to laughter. Even when it’s all over and we coast into the disembarkment camp we are all grinning from ear to ear, with scarcely any regret for signing up for the day’s adventure.

There’s only one task left to do, and that is to pose as a team in front of the rafts, paddles raised in victory – for we have tamed the mighty Mae Tang river.

Like a big cosy duvet, mist shrouds the valley far below us. Away in the distance, a crowing cockerel gets the Hmong villagers out of bed, but the only other sound is the crunch of our bike tyres on the gravel track. With a soft click of gears, our group tackles a small incline but our attention is still riveted on the sweeping vista of forest immediately below us

Northern Thailand is a mountain bikers’ paradise. The prospect of spending a week in the saddle through some of Thailand’s most mountainous terrain left me with mixed feelings of exhilaration and exhaustion. Luckily, the Spice Roads’ tour is cleverly designed to take place over a leisurely nine days and somehow avoids the steep climbs but rewards the cyclist with some breathtaking back road routes between Chiang Mai and the Golden Triangle. Over the following week, we would meander through fruit orchards and careen down through lush rainforest. We splashed through delightful streams and crawled through caves, posed in front of unusual Shan temples and rode elephants. And we trekked to a Lahu village before finally coming upon on the escarpment of a wild frontier where the Shan State hills stretched far into the distance. But I’m getting a little ahead of myself here.

To the west of Chiang Mai loom the imposing Doi Pui and Suithep peaks, which act as a spiritual guardian for the city. They also provide a good indication of what the North has to offer mountain bikers and adventurers. And so we found ourselves way above the bustling tourist city, among the mist of the mountains and crisp morning chill. From Phuping Palace, near the summit, our group got to know each other as we gently climbed up through the pine trees heading for Baan Chiang Khian – a Hmong Village that enjoys unbeatable views of the Ping valley below. From here, the fun starts with a thrilling 20-kilometre off-road descent through the national park. There are a number of ‘fire’ roads that criss-cross this mountain, used regularly by the Hmong, and the one we take turns out to be a hair-raising experience – quite technical at times but suitable for anyone familiar with a mountain bike. The safety briefing at the start wasn’t overstated and eventually, buzzing with adrenalin, we emerge at the Huay Tong Tao reservoir in the valley. Not bad for a warm up!

Day two begins not on bikes but on a boat, as we are ferried to the far corner of the Mae Kuang reservoir north of Chiang Mai, and I’m intrigued by the prospect of being deposited on a far bank that no cars or motorbikes can reach. Today, we are told by our guide Woody, is mainly single track through forest as we head towards Chiang Dao. Adventure activities in Chiang Mai

“Mai pen rai, every year I get lost this part,” Woody mischievously explains as we plunge deeper into the sub-tropical growth, following tracks that are sometimes barely noticeable. This charade goes on for a couple of hours and we don’t care – riding a trail that hasn’t been used in ages adds to the sense of adventure. Eventually we pop out on to an asphalt road and follow it to Buatong waterfall, where lunch is waiting for us hungry cyclists. Northern Thailand is covered in gorgeous waterfalls but this particular one emerges from a spring and is covered in an unusual limestone deposit. From here, we hit the road, onwards to Mae Ngat dam before thankfully arriving at the Royal Ping Resort.

Every trip has its clowns, and the touring group you’re with always adds to the memory. For example, we have along with us a group of ever-polite Singaporeans who are so ridiculously kitted out that even NASA would be overwhelmed. They have shown up with every imaginable gadget, including GPS and two-way radios, heart rate monitors and cadence meters, enough portable tools to build a rocket launcher and their titanium full-suspension super-light bikes that cost more than the entire annual budget of some the villages we would be visiting. Of course, this was all proportionately opposite to their riding ability, but we were given a useful commentary of stats throughout the trip such as, “Altitude: 1440m la, bearing: 20, 52N, 98, 30E, wind speed…”.

On day two, as we entered the maze of single tracks, we were subjected to the likes of: “Ong Chee, ah, report position ovah,” squelch squelch, “OK roger that, ovah,” “We are approaching river with water in it, ovah,” along with periodic warnings like “Hole” and “Rut” and “Snake!”, which would echo down the line.

We set out early for Chiang Dao – a distinctive and isolated mountain about 80kms north of Chiang Mai, and the road to it meanders through a narrow cutting that is draped in morning mist with sheer rock faces looming on either side of the asphalt road. The caves at the base are a honeycomb of adventure and a 30-minute tour through the dark network is a welcome change from the saddle. Pressing on, we arrive in the small adjacent town in time for the Tuesday morning market, which gives us a fascinating glimpse into Northern Thailand country life. The colourful Lisu have come to town for the day, hawking their embroidery in a kaleidoscope of colour that matches our Lycra cycling gear. On display are some bizarre root remedies including one that promises to cure ‘all pocks and syphilitic eruptions around the neck’! Fruit is the mainstay of the economy in these parts and it becomes quite obvious as our route zigzagged for the rest of the day through undulating terrain covered in orchards.

After a night in which we had the entire Alpine-styled Chiang Dao Hills Resort to ourselves, we set out again on another nicely scheduled flat ride that skirts the massif of Doi Angkhang. This close to the Myanmar border, we observe a difference in cultural influences, most notably the multi-tiered roofs of the Shan’s Buddhist temples. It makes me feel like we have entered another country. Later in the afternoon, we finally approach the border town of Tha Ton, riding along dykes between irrigated fields, as we dead-reckon towards a giant Buddha on the hillside above the town.

Tha Ton is a tiny town that sits astride the Kok river as it enters Thailand through a gap in the adjacent hills. The following morning, we take to boats once more to negotiate the hilly terrain by way of river. It involves squeezing ourselves and bikes into these unstable boats, much to the bemusement of some loitering Kareni hill tribe folk who probably think we are absolutely crazy to be tackling this province by bike. Today we ride only 20kms. The route follows the river bank on a dirt road that passes several rural villages before arriving in Baan Ruammit — a hive of tourist activity with its elephant camp and handicraft shops. Bikes are now traded for elephants and the tour deviates from cycling to trekking. But 15 jolting minutes on the back of a lumbering elephant leaves me wishing I had never left my saddle. Before long, however, these stoic beasts are effortlessly trundling up steep unbikeable paths and I concede that cycling would’ve been a bad idea.

Within an hour, we come upon Baan Ya Fu — a Lahu village that will host us for the night. Here there is no electricity, no road access in the rainy season and few conveniences, yet the locals seem content and busy. Our usual four-star accommodation has been traded for a bamboo long house, short on comfort but rich in atmosphere. This tiny hamlet of 400 really is something to write home about. To the metronomic thud of a foot-driven mortar, we wander around the small lopsided village. There are kids following us around curiously, playful puppies tumbling in the dust, chickens aimlessly strutting around, and dogs and ducks keeping an eye on each other. An exhausted sow lies helpless as a clutch of hungry piglets attack her shrivelled udders. The locals regard us suspiciously, for the Lahu are one of the shyest of the hill tribes, and I can’t help thinking we have turned their village into a human zoo.

Day six starts with a trek down the hillside to Mae Sa waterfall, where we pick up a transfer to the base of Doi Mae Salong. Today we will tackle the first of the hills, with a bet to see who wimps out. Mae Salong is an interesting community of tea growers of Chinese descent. Their previous generation arrived here as Kuomintang exiles who were unable to reach Taiwan when they fled Mao’s communists in 1949. Apart from all the tea fields and obvious Chinese character, the town enjoys wonderful views — earning itself the description ‘Little Switzerland’. Fortunately, the climb is all on asphalt and the ordeal is over in less than two hours. We are rewarded with a fantastic panorama from the striking Wat Boromathat perched on a nearby hill.

By now we were craving more of the exhilarating downhill that whet our appetite on day one and right on cue we descend Doi Mae Salong on seldom-used dirt roads that pass through more hill tribe villages. It’s a deliberately short day because we are to stay at one of the area’s most luxurious resorts: Phu Chai Sai, with bungalows constructed entirely of bamboo and a sweeping restaurant area that commands excellent views. It’s ideal for relaxation in preparation for the final, and most demanding, day of the journey. Besides, by now we have covered more than 400kms and could do with a rest.

The final leg sets out on dirt roads and single track through some unusual karst scenery interspersed with rice paddies. But ahead of us, the imposing Doi Tung mountain has a 1000m ascent. Doi Tung is the northernmost elevated position in the country and was the scene of some cross border spats with the Burmese in 2002. It also attracts plenty of Thai tourists to the flower gardens developed by the late Princess Mother who had a winter home here.

With trepidation, we tackle the steep inclines to reach the revered temple at the summit, which apparently houses a clavicle bone of the Lord Buddha. When you’re moving at 5kph with a seemingly endless climb around each corner you have plenty of time to question why you volunteered for this madness. But the sense of achievement and satisfaction of summitting unaided is fantastic when you see the views. To the southeast is the whole Chiang Rai valley. After a further short climb, we are humbled by the stretching expanse of Myanmar to the north. With scarcely a sign of human habitation anywhere, we feel like we have reached the edge of a frontier. In fact, the very edge. The road we are on demarcates the border as we pass both Thai and Burmese checkpoints facing-off metres apart. Spotting some tempting single track to my left, I feel the urge to take a sudden dive down the hillside into Myanmar.

Instead we descend on some hairy switchbacks before coasting into the dusty frontier town of Mae Sai – popular with visa runners, gamblers and porn VCD shoppers. No one is interested in hopping over the border and we are eager to press on to the Golden Triangle. And so we follow a single track along the banks of the Ruak river until we eventually reach the mighty Maekong and the end of our journey. Exhausted after 500kms, we all pose under the famous ‘Golden Triangle’ sign in the little tourist town of Sop Ruak. Behind us is the distinctive sandbar that indicates the point where three countries meet – the symbolic centre of an area once famous for opium production and smuggling. All there is left to see now is a couple of museums, tacky souvenir shops and the interesting historic town of Chiang Saen, 10kms south. But we’re all done with touring and collapse into the minivans for the easy route back to Chiang Mai.

No province in Thailand is more blessed with natural beauty than Krabi. It’s the home of the world famous Phi Phi islands, the stunning Railay Beach, unique Hong Island and lovely Koh Lanta. These are all on the water, yet the incredible karst topography stretches across miles of hinterland, offering plenty of other treasures that few foreign tourists ever get to.

Within an hour’s drive of Krabi Town or Ao Nang beach are national parks and extraordinary scenery which begs to be discovered by hired car or moped. For a day away from the beach, make time in your itinerary for these gorgeous sites;

Tiger Cave Temple: this is one of the more popular inland attractions in Krabi which gets a steady stream of tourists. Most come to see the cave temple, rather than meditate, but few dare to climb the 1,200 steep stairs to the top of this karst pillar to find the chedi with the best views of any Buddhist site in Thailand. Climbing to the chedi is a great way to get an aerial view of the karst landscape. There are no tigers, but it is famous among Thais based on a personality cult of abbot Ajarn Jamnien. The grounds are surrounded by towering rainforest dipterocarps. It’s located northwest of Krabi Town; turn off the airport road. Minimal entrance charge.

Than Bokkharani National Park: is possibly one of the most delightful nature spots in the region, when it isn’t crowded with locals who like to come and bathe in the many ponds here. Sandwiched between two 50 foot cliffs, this grove consists of a series of pools that cascade into each other, with the water emerging from a mysterious looking cave at the rear. As a result of the limestone, the water is an aqua colour and the cascades calcified so they’re not slippery. A series of pathways and boardwalks meander among the ponds, streams and lush vegetation – certainly worth the 200 baht entrance fee, and with restaurants on hand. It’s great for kids in their swimsuits, but avoid the busy weekends. Turn off to Ao Luek after 40 minutes drive on the Pha Nga/Phuket main highway. Guide to Krabi’s coast

Tha Pom Mangrove boardwark: less seen by foreigners than Thais, who have been beating a path to this new attraction since it was featured in the Unseen Thailand travel series. A limestone spring flows through the mangrove among the hilly landscape to create two symbiotic eco-systems and an interesting crystal clear water course. A boardwalk takes you on a 500m tour of a real mangrove. This site is a bit tricky to find, though signposted as you drive away from Krabi towards Phuket – just follow the directions into the dense karst hills. Entrance is 100 baht.

Phanom Bencha National Park: one of the main national parks in Krabi and easily reachable just north of Krabi Town and Ao Nang. It comprises of 50km2 of virgin rainforest over a hilly landscape (up to 1,530m) and includes camping facilities, picnic spots, a couple of lofty waterfalls and some nature trails. Several species of native animals and lots of birds and reptiles can be spotted if you have an eagle eye. Entrance is 200 baht.

Crystal Lagoon: part of a much recommended tour that includes the Tiger Temple and hot springs/waterfall, this is a charming pool formed by the volcanic activity (hot springs) in the area, and offers a refreshing dip in its aqua coloured waters which are surrounded by mangrove and forest vegetation. The rocks form a natural pool and it’s an ideal lunch stop when travelling around the nearby sites in the heat of the day. Turn off at Klong Thom, 30 minutes drive south of Krabi heading towards Koh Lanta. Entrance is 100 baht.

Hot stream waterfall: one of many hot springs in the region, but with a difference. This particular hot water pool comes with a natural waterfall for an added difference, and is set in a lovely environment of gushing water and forest. It’s also featured in the Unseen Thailand series so expect to find lots of Thai tourists here. Located on the same turnoff as the Crystal Lagoon. Entrance is 100 baht.

Caving: with so many limestone karst pillars scattered across Krabi province, it’s not surprising that there are endless caves to be explored. Most of the good ones are located among the really stark landscape found near Ao Luek and beyond in Pha Nga. It’s best to pick them out on a local tourist map. Even if you do get lost, it will be among some remarkable scenery. Forty minutes drive north, towards Pha Nga and Phuket, mostly free. What to see – Krabi highlights

So you see, there’s a lot more to Krabi than its lovely beaches and seascapes.

Visitors to Chiang Mai in Northern Thailand come for the quaint, unhurried pace of life, the bargain shopping and the potential to break out on retreats into the mountains and jungle with a trekking trip. Whatever your reason for coming, Chiang Mai promises plenty of opportunities for excitement, relaxation and historic journeys into the city’s past.

A trip to Mae Sa
A 30–minute drive to Mae Sa is a fun event for the entire family, as the area is packed with activities. Tourists venture out for the orchid nurseries; the well–known Elephant Camp where visitors can ride elephants and watch performances including a football match played by elephants; a snake farm and bungee jumping. Finally, the Mae Sa Waterfall offers a place to relax or perhaps go hiking.

Chiang Mai Night Bazaar
Chiang Mai is well–known for its handicrafts, silk and large markets. This all comes to a focus at the Chiang Mai Night Bazaar, a veritable shopper’s dream. Stretching the entire length of Chang Klan road, this market has become more of a tourist’s domain than it once was. Here you’ll find an assortment of jewellery, clothing, antiques, silver, all manners of souvenirs and knock–off designer items. It’s open every evening until midnight. This is where you’ll find many of Chiang Mai hotels.

Doi Inthanon National Park
Situated south of Chiang Mai, Doi Inthanon National Park is a unique wildlife preserve and often makes for a comfortable cool weather retreat after spending time in the city. It’s the tallest mountain in Thailand at a grand height of 8,415 feet. Camping is permitted in the park and the natural surroundings make for an excellent getaway. This is one of the best places for trekking in Northern Thailand.

Wat Phratat Doi Suthep
Overlooking the Old City of Chiang Mai, the mountain of Doi Suthep holds one of Thailand’s most sacred temples. The 300–stair climb leads you to the large chedi and golden spire. This large temple complex dates back to the 14th century and the view of the city achieved from the marble courtyard is worth the trip alone. No trip to Chiang Mai is complete without visiting Doi Suthep. Ask the concierge at the hotels for assistance getting up there, it’s one of the most important in Thailand.

Thai massage and spas
Places to get a massage can literally be found on almost every street of the Old City, and prices range depending on quality and accessibility. Thai massage is world–renown, and some of the most skilled masseurs can be found in the more upscale spas, which also offer body scrubs and detox and beautification treatments. Even at these high–end facilities, the money spent is still fantastic value when compared to the superb quality of the treatment. Chiang Mai massage guide

Chiang Mai Zoo
Don’t be surprised if a local asks you if you’ve visited the zoo yet–most likely, they’re wondering if you’ve seen the pair of pandas which are on loan from China, an endless source of pride for locals. These are only two of the more than 6,000 animals on display at the zoo which sits at the base of Suthep Mountain, from where there are wonderful views of the city.

Courses and training
Chiang Mai overflows with all sorts of courses in which tourists can enrol for only a few days or weeks at a time. Due to the affordable prices and the comfortable atmosphere in Chiang Mai, visitors are tempted to dig in and stay a while. So whether you’re looking to learn the art of Thai massage, perfect your Thai cooking skills or study Thai boxing, you’ll find it here for every level and length of time. When in Thailand this is highly recommended.

The Old City
A tour of the Old City is easily done on foot or by bike, and is the best way to come face–to–face with Chiang Mai’s legacy. Portions of the old wall were restored in the 19th century, and the 700–year–old moat that surrounds the city has been beautifully preserved. The city gates have also been restored, and each marks an important commercial avenue in or out of the city. Temples are spread across the entire Old City, and some of the more important include Wat Chedi Luang, Wat Phrasingh and Wat Chiang Mai.

Adventure sports
Any number of adventure sports can be organised through travel agencies in Chiang Mai. Some of the more popular outings include white–water rafting on the Mae Tang River, which is 1 hour, 30 minute drive out of town; mountain biking on Doi Suthep with the added bonus of spending time at the temple if you make it all the way to the top, and rock climbing at Crazy Horse Buttress. There’s also an outdoor climbing wall located to one side of the Night Bazaar. Trekking in Chiang Mai is perhaps the biggest drawcard

Trekking Northern Thailand
It’s impossible to list the major attractions of Chiang Mai without mentioning trekking. Tour guide operators use the city as a springboard from which to organise trips into the surrounding mountainous jungles. Complete guide to Northern Thailand. Expeditions are packed with a variety of activities and range from daytrips to several night journeys that include hiking, elephant riding and bamboo rafting. Routes are planned around hill tribe villages, where overnight accommodation is provided. Trekking is the best way to see rural Northern Thailand.

We’d come down from the hippie town of Pai. After days of heavy rains and stormy conditions, the weather finally breaks and the intense sun can be felt once again. We’re travelling in a Landrover alongside the Mae Tang River, fighting through deep ruts and muddy conditions that were caused by a storm. The gorge to our left drops away dramatically and we finally get out first glimpse of the raging waters. I’m hoping my partner, who was reluctant to come on the trip, won’t be deterred by the sight of the ferocious river.

Jason, our guide, thankfully reassures us that he never rafts an angry river. He stops and points to some rocks by the river’s edge. “See this boulder here”, he points out, “when this is above the water level, it’s safe to raft this river”. The rain from the recent typhoon has inundated the valley and there is forest debris strewn all along the river banks. We weren’t sure whether to raft here or in Pai. Fortunately, he is internationally trained and qualified in water rescue so we take his word for it.

We reach our camp at the charming village of Sop Kai, where the river is slower due to the flat nature of the land. The jungle birds are singing, the water is glistening and everybody is in a more jovial mood. We are given some coffee and snacks and left to relax for a while in this peaceful, sleepy community. Few tourists make it here to enjoy the wonderful scenery. His camp was much like the laid back atmosphere in Pai a few days back.

Before we get too comfortable, we are kitted out with paddles, helmets and buoyancy aids. We are given a comprehensive safety briefing, and told that the guides will be in control of the rafts and that we must follow their orders. We practice our strokes on a quiet section of the river. “Forward paddle! Back paddle! Lean left! Right! Get down!” he screams as we try our best to appear competent.

Our minds are put at ease when some of the staff are dispatched to the more dangerous parts of the river, in anticipation of the raft capsizing. We also have kayakers that will stay with us to rescue anyone who falls in.

Before we knew it, the guides launch us into the main current of the river and the camp disappears from view. It’s too late to go back and we focus intently on the rapids ahead. My heart rate increases as the thunderous sound of water gets closer and closer. I let out a scream as we are thrown into the grade four rapid, anxiously trying to stay balanced as the raft accelerates. My adrenalin pumps and we are thrown around, but it’s not long until the raft emerges into a calmer section.

We continued, riding over some smaller and less-intimidating rapids until our guide said “okay, everybody ready?” A large collection of storm debris has divided the upcoming rapid and the right hand side looks extremely dangerous. “Lean left! Left, left, left!” he shouts as we desperately try to avoid being swept into the menacing waters. People start to panic until the survival instinct takes over and we haul ourselves towards the easier looking section. Miraculously, we somehow make it and our panic turns to laughter as we exit the section with relief and cheers. Chiang Mai outdoor action

After a deserved lunch break when we relax and swap stories, we proceed onto the toughest section of our journey. The next rapid is a grade five, the hardest, and it looks more like a waterfall. We approach it with trepidation, knowing that there is no way back and only one way through it. As we hurl over the top, I catch a glimpse of the safety team on the bank and I sense that we may not make this one unscathed.

The raft hits the bottom and immediately flips over, tossing everyone into the water. Panic reigns once again as I’m pushed underwater by the power of the rapids. I desperately try to remember the safety advice I was given earlier in the day. Fighting it is forlorn and I wait for what seems like an eternity until I’m washed out farther downstream and able to swim to the safety of the bank.

We are able to regroup and rescue the rafts, safe in the knowledge that we survived the mighty Mae Tang River. A celebratory photograph is all that is left of my most exciting day in Thailand.

There is also rafting in Pai, down the Pai river to Mae Hong Son, but this one I think is more exciting. Full Pai travel guide

On your trip to Krabi province in southern Thailand, if the usual holiday excursions or activities don’t float your boat then you might want to consider getting off the beaten track and away from the popular tourist traps while still basking in the region’s greatest asset, its natural beauty.

Krabi is blessed with stunning scenery and a rich eco-system that supports a wide range of flora and fauna. There is no better way to experience and appreciate these characteristics than by taking an exciting eco-trip with a knowledgeable local tour operator. Trips can be as short as a half-day or as long as several days with all tours guaranteeing you the opportunity of witnessing sights unavailable to tourists on regular excursions. Krabi activities and tours

The Khao Nor Chu Chi National Park is a common destination to visit on eco-tours in Krabi and is one of the province’s most picturesque and visually interesting nature spots. Trip-goers to the park are promised encounters with hot springs, freshwater pools, caves and waterfalls as well as a wide variety of indigenous animal species.

Especially interesting are the large number of tropical birds which inhabit the park, among which are species such as the Asian paradise-flycatcher, fulvous-chested flycatcher, blue-eared kingfisher, chestnut-bellied malkoha, scarlet-rumped trogon and black-yellow broadbill.

Similarly scenic and a regular listing on eco-tour itineraries is the Khao Sok National Park. Here visitors can climb aloft an elephant and enjoy trekking through the jungle undergrowth, taking in all manner of fascinating wildlife sights along the way. The park’s collection of bird specimens is similarly diverse, as is its creepy crawly population, which is best appreciated from the safety of an elephant’s back. Later in the day, there are usually opportunities to try your hand at canoeing along the Khao Sok river, an experience offering both thrills and visual treats.

Khao Sok can be enjoyed on a daytrip or over a couple of days with an overnight stop. The latter option offers you a far greater opportunity to see the park’s wildlife as well as the fun of sleeping under canvas. The experience is safe, with only the worry of the odd irritating mosquito bite to contend with. Bring plenty of bug spray and you’ll be fine.

If you are prepared to travel a little further, then you can enjoy an eco-trip that takes in the delights of neighbouring Phang Nga province, another highly scenic destination. Despite considerable commercial development, Phang Nga has plenty of untouched areas where the presiding influences are natural ones. Phang Nga tourist guide

Trip-goers can enjoy guided treks through rich green forest areas where water buffaloes bathe in natural pools, birds sing in the trees and lizards and insects scurry about their business. There are chances to enjoy elephant riding and unspoilt river sights from the perfect vantage points afforded by a bamboo raft.

There are some other natural beauty spots that haven’t yet been trampled under tourist foot. Tha Pom is a mangrove with freshwater spring stream, preserved from human destruction by a handy boardwalk which allows us all to see and experience this symbiotic eco-system without destroying it. Following the signs from the main Krabi to Pha Nga road, you wind your way through some aewsome karst topography, but pay attention to roadsigns, this one is tricky to get to. More familiar but my no means quiet is the stunning glades and cascading aqua coloured pools of Than Bokkharani National Park just off the main highway to Pha Nga, about 50kms from Krabi. It might be a bit crowded with frolicking locals but that doesn’t detract from its beauty.

While eco-tours are generally suitable for all members of the family, some physically demanding activities may be involved. If you plan to bring young ones or those who are physically challenged on the trip, it’s wise to enquire what your intended tour entails. Be sure to pack appropriate clothing, plenty of mosquito repellant and a keen sense of adventure and your trip is sure to be a blast.

Are you ready to take the plunge into marital bliss? Then why not literally take a plunge into the stunning Andaman Sea and exchange your vows underwater.

This seemingly bizarre, but increasingly popular, way to get married has become a highlight of Trang’s island tourism since it was first introduced in 1996. If you’re looking for a stamp of uniqueness to put on your wedding day, look no further than an underwater marriage in Trang – just a short hop from Krabi.

Each Valentine’s Day, the pristine island of Kradang off Thailand’s western coast becomes the site of a fun and festive three-day wedding event organised by the Trang Chamber of Commerce. The Underwater Wedding Ceremony, as it’s creatively named, is one of the few events in the world where you can officially get married underwater. The natural timing between this region’s calm dry season and Valentine’s Day couldn’t be better.

This unique way to exchange marriage vows is open to foreigners as well as Thais, with an average of 30 couples participating in this annual event. Some are newlyweds, while others come to renew their vows. The only condition for an underwater wedding is that each person must be a certified scuba diver.

If you’re intrigued by an underwater wedding, but aren’t PADI certified, don’t worry. Simply arrive in Thailand a week or two early and take diving lessons at one of the many Krabi dive companies. Non-divers, however, are also welcome to participate.

This is a legally binding marriage, and most foreign countries recognise marriages officiated in Thailand. The novelty is that the couples actually sign their marriage certificates underwater using a special pen in front of a district officer who witnesses and then approves the union. But there’s much more to the ceremony than simply signing a paper underwater.

Upon arrival in Trang, all the brides and grooms involved are paraded around town in a traditional Khan Maak procession while the locals cheer them on. Couples can wear whatever suits take their fancy, from tuxedos and white wedding dresses to bikinis or bizarre costumes. It’s all about having fun on your special day!

After the Thai-style procession, everyone boards a caravan of brightly coloured long-tail boats and heads to Kradang Island. Friends and relatives can follow behind the procession. At the beach, Buddhist rituals are performed, followed by the traditional Thai act of pouring lustre water over the couples.

The brides and grooms are then separated and enter the warm crystal clear water at different ends of the beach. Swimming through schools of tropical fish, they meet at the designated site 12 metres underwater and complete the official ceremony. If you get cold feet, you can simply swim away. The ocean is a huge place.

Non-diver bridal couples can also participate. Special kayaks are prepared to transport them to the registration boat offshore where they can complete the official ceremony above water. After returning to the beach, the newlyweds and their guests can enjoy traditional southern Thai cuisine, music, dancing and a fireworks show. This revolves around the uniquely Trang marriage tradition known as Kin Neow. With sticky rice at the heart of the meal, this symbolic staple is an auspicious symbol binding the new families together in harmony and prosperity.

The following day, newlyweds are invited to join a special ceremony to plant local Sri-Trang trees at the Peninsular Botanic Gardens in commemoration of their wedding. Many couples then head for the luxury resorts of nearby Krabi for their honeymoons. Krabi hotels for honeymooners

You’ll likely want to hire a private minivan to make the 131km trip from Krabi to Trang. This can easily be done at any travel shop in Krabi. Buses also run to Trang, but that are not a popular way to start your new life together. Nok Air operates a direct daily flight from Bangkok to Trang if you are arriving straight from the capital.

All couples who want to participate in this wonderfully fun and unique wedding event must register with the Trang Chamber of Commerce ahead of time. Visit their detailed website at www.underwaterwedding.com for all the information and registration forms you need, or call them direct in Thailand at: +66 7 522 5353.

Koh Pha Ngan, a remote island in the Gulf of Thailand, has been the host of the now-legendary Full Moon Party for well over a decade. From its humble beginnings as a marijuana-smoking hippie’s get-together to its current status as a global party, the island is long accustomed to hosting hedonists.

Each month, thousands of revelers descend on the southern tip of the island in expectation of the party of a lifetime. Just a short hop by boat from neighbouring Samui, Koh Pha Ngan is no longer a place for the intrepid only. Getting here couldn’t be easier, with party-goers having to do little other than follow the herds off the boats and into the back of a pick-up truck, the island’s taxi service.  

For the uninitiated, the ride to Had Rin from Thong Sala Pier will likely leave you with white knuckles as the taxi takes on hairpin bends at an astonishing rate. The boosted police presence and check-points on the eve of the event may guarantee you a slower ride and a passport check, if you are lucky. Koh Pha Ngan and Thailand guide

Once you arrive and your head stops spinning from the rollercoaster taxi ride, it is time to find accommodation. Booking ahead is not an option for many of the budget choices which prefer (and have no problem) to let their rooms go on a first-come, first-served basis. If you are looking for something a bit more luxurious than a dog-eared mattress in a makeshift bamboo hut, book well ahead or get here a week early.

Most people like to stay on the eastern side of the cape, where all the action is. The quieter and less appealing western side is just a short walk and acts as an overflow for those who get here late. Of course, opting for no accommodation is a popular choice among those who don’t plan on sleeping, but this is only really a viable option if you plan of hopping on a boat to Samui in the early hours. Accomodation on Koh pha Ngan

Many mooners experience a waning in their party spirits or overindulge too early and find themselves looking for a patch of shrubbery in which to take a mid-party cat nap. Even worse, some fall asleep for the whole night and miss their morning ferry ride. After sunrise, there is more than just litter to clear from the beach, with dozens of passed-out mooners strewn across the sand, making any hope of finding a bed in the early hours slim.

Accommodation is however of little concern to dedicated hedonists, who come here to bar hop all night, splash in the water and throw themselves about on the dance floor, most of which are made from sand.

“We come every year”, says Fredrik from Copenhagen. “The women are beautiful and it is the best party atmosphere in Asia”, the 32-year-old graphic designer adds.

While you may not bump into Leonardo De Caprico, the Full Moon Party is Thailand’s biggest rave event attracting top DJs from Bangkok as well as some dubious international turntable wizards.

But many say the party has passed its sell-by date, now attracting hyperactive youths who have overdosed on Red Bull, not to mention the pumped-up police presence that mingle with ravers looking for anyone up to monkey business. While you will still never be a far cry from a day-glow paint vendor or an amateur fire juggler, the clientele is a distinctly new generation of mooners from the party’s first attendees.

“I first came 10 years ago”, says Richard Burch from Brighton, “the party vibe is still kicking, but things are not as laid-back as they used to be”, he adds.

Party-goes have also reported an increase in bungalow break-ins and incidents of pick-pocketing. Women are advised not to walk back to their accommodation alone at night. A warning of a different sort is also becoming common knowledge: don’t cool off in the water. Once the party gets rocking, the Gulf turns into a giant men’s urinal, with the boys preferring its convenience to using the crowded club toilets.

The Glastonbury-meets-Ibiza-on-a-Thai-island party has come a long way from its humble beginnings, with the new generation of mooners just as likely to have stepped off the plane in Armani jeans as opposed to Thai fisherman pants. The partiers may be a generation on, but the essence of having a good time is still alive and kicking.

By Mark Bentley 

Once a quiet residential zone just outside of the Grand Palace area, Khao San road in Bangkok’s Banglampu district, is now an exceedingly well established tourist mecca that attracts backpacking travellers from across the globe.   

Those who have not visited invariably know where it is and at least one person who has been there. The global infamy of Khao San road Bangkok perpetuates its appeal as a place to find budget accommodation, cheap local souvenirs, counterfeit merchandise, dreadlocks and like-minded travellers. It wasn’t until 1982, when Bangkok’s bicentennial anniversary celebrations brought large numbers of international visitors to the area, that Bangkok’s Khao San’s potential as a haven for cheap accommodation was realised.

Visitors unable to get rooms in the over-saturated hotel infrastructure were forced to seek refuge at a small price in the homes of local residents. Realising the fiscal benefits of such arrangements, locals set about offering room space on a permanent basis and hence the age of cheap guesthouse accommodation was born. When Lonely Planet decided to include the area as a ‘budget accomodation’ street in its Thailand guide, it’s popularity took off.
Guide to Bangkok. 

The rest is pretty much history, with entrepreneur after entrepreneur moving into the area, and its reputation as a backpacker-friendly zone escalating rapidly. Today it bares little resemblance to the real Bangkok or Thailand for that matter, with all its western conveniences and foreign-owned businesses. These amenities however are its greatest appeals for many visitors. Khao San road Bangkok has become a monster as far as others are concerned, and an ugly looking one at that. The distinct lack of Thai culture, flagrant capitalist attitudes of local business owners (tourists are often viewed as ‘walking dollars’) and tendency to attract what might be deemed by many as unsavoury characters has certainly given the road and some of its surrounding area an environment akin to a cheap carnival.

It is easy to be critical of Bangkok’s Khao San road and overlook the fact that it serves a variety of important purposes. Primarily, it benefits those seeking accommodation and travel on a shoestring and in doing so it successfully unites them in their common goal. Secondly, it offers a gentle introduction to the diversity of Thai culture, permitting visitors to sample local food and drink alongside familiar culinary creations in either typically Thai or western-furnished establishments. Guesthouses in Bangkok

Bangkok comes very much from his or her own subcultural leanings. Those favouring vests, beads, Birkenstock sandals and dreadlocked hair are likely to feel right at home, while those of the shirt and tie brigade may well find it all a little bit too bohemian for their liking. However, the area’s reputation is sufficient in that most visitors have a fair idea of what to expect long before they arrive here.  In fact, it has a become an attraction in itself, excellent for people watching. Lately upmarket and trendy bars and restaurants have opened and it tends to attract a certain crowd of local Bangkokians wanting to feel cosmopolitan.

Certainly it is one of the city’s most lively areas by night and the main road is closed to traffic, making it a crowded pedestrian thoroughfare.  Love it or hate it, the atmosphere of the place is electric. Shops, restaurants, bars and guesthouses, and the street on which they sit, buzz with activity day and night. Things get livelier still when popular Thai holidays such as April’s Songkran festival are taking place. This is the time when guesthouse rooms are scarce, things get a tad crowded and when a little of the famous Thai patience can be useful to ensure peaceful associations with fellow travellers.
  
Night-times here are busiest, as the daytime heat is often just a touch too intense to make the street a comfortable place to be unless you venture into an air-conditioned environment. After sunset, the bars and restaurants fill up. An initial evaluation of the scene might have you thinking it’s all faux hippies tapping their flip-flopped feet to Bob Marley however it’s plenty more varied than that, with venues playing dance music, rock classics and contemporary pop.  Bohemian clothes and accessories might seem to form the bulk of consumer goods for sale on the street however you will also find pretty much everything you need for hitting the backpacker trail. Travel accessories, handy size electronic products, swimwear, cheap t-shirts, shorts and footwear can all be found.

As long as you don’t expect the majority of them to last much longer than the duration of your trip, you’ll be able to kit yourself out for less than half of what a similar array might cost back home.    At the end of the day, if you are 18 to 35 years old and are looking for a cheap place to lay your head at night, somewhere to meet other travellers, travel agents at which you can organise your ongoing Southeast Asian travel plans, purchase ethnic souvenirs and cheap holiday clothes, then Bangkok’s Khao San road can indeed offer you all this and a whole lot more. 

Forget the absence of Thai culture (that’s waiting for you at your next destination) and enjoy the amiable, lively and inviting atmosphere that the street offers. If you’ve an adversity to backpackers and all the clichés that accompany them, then you’re definitely in the wrong part of town and should probably take the first available bus to Sukhumvit road. 

More on Khao San road

Phuket provides plenty of gorgeous weather for enjoying the coastlines and the Andaman Sea. Water sports are of course plentiful, ranging from banana boat rides and scuba diving to kite-boarding and surfing. However, the most rewarding water activity is sailing.

Phuket is renowned for its excellent sailing, and the marine industry has been flourishing since the government reduction in boat import tax from 200 per cent down to 0 per cent. Sailors have the best of both worlds on Phuket: the deep blue seas and stellar boating conditions in the high season off the west coast, alongside the year-round shelter and unique features of Phang Nga Bay off the east coast.

The west coast of the island is popular for its white, sandy beaches and deep blue seas. More recently, the east coast has started to boom with spectacular high-end developments offering amazing views across Phang Nga Bay.

“The sailing here is incredible,” says Bob Welders, a tourist from Australia, “I spend most of my time on the water and the rest eating the great seafood and partying in Patong – you can’t beat Phuket.”

Marinas are springing up everywhere to accommodate all the new yachts coming here from around the world and those that are moored here as their base. Phuket is shaping itself as a major international marine destination, and you’ll find no shortage of ways to get on a sailboat. More on sailing in Phuket

It’s easy to hire a boat if you’re a seasoned sailor, or you can opt for sailing lessons if you’re a novice. A range of sailing companies provide ASA and RYA certification. There are also plenty of sailing trips lasting from overnight to 10 days.

For those who are just looking to cruise the Andaman for one day, there are lots of great options. Probably the most spectacular place to head for on a daytrip in the high season is the Similan Islands. You’ll cross the most beautiful deep blue waters of the Andaman and head north to this stunning collection of nine islands, technically located in Phang Nga province.

The Similans are located within a marine national park and have retained a pristine appearance that is so stunning you must visit in person to believe it. Above the water, you’ll find the finest, powdery white sands contrasted with lush green forests. Off the shores and into the deep are clear waters filled with amazing tropical marine life and bright corals, perfect for snorkelling or scuba diving.

Visitors should take note that the islands close during the green season (April to October) and if you are visiting Phuket in the high season, you shouldn’t miss out on the unique experience of visiting this beautiful marine park. Be sure to pack drinks and food, as there are no restaurants here!

Any time of year, you can enjoy the sailing off the east coast of Phuket, in Phang Nga Bay, and most daytrips will take you in and around this area as there’s so much to see. Hundreds of islands and karst rock formations jut out of the waters here, providing spectacular scenery unlike anywhere else in the world.

As well as sailing to the tiny uninhabited rocks and beaches, and exploring the ‘haung’ (‘rooms’ open to the sky and surrounded by rock, accessed by walking or wading through a cave entrance), there are some excellent inhabited islands where you can tie up and have a picnic or stay overnight at a resort.

You can sail to Koh Yao Noi and visit The Paradise, where lunch is served in an open-air pavilion on the beach. Koh Yao Yai is the largest island in Phang Nga Bay and it takes roughly an hour to get here by sailboat. Koh Yao Noi is the most developed of the two islands, but it still has a refreshing sleepy fishing-village feel and unspoilt beaches. The nightlife is virtually non-existent and is limited to quiet dining and resort bars.

There’s also Phi Phi Islands, just a few hours sail away. Lined with cute bungalows and more than enough dive shops, Phi Phi Don is the largest island and popular with a younger crowd. The pristine national park beaches of Phi Phi Leh, the location for the filming of the 1990s movie The Beach, have a laid-back and enjoyable atmosphere.

Beyond Phi Phi is Krabi. Reminiscent of a more peaceful Phuket of the 1980s, Krabi is a great destination for families and couples who want to enjoy the beach and relatively untouched nature. The main strip of Ao Nang has all the amenities you require, while Railay Beach is only accessible by boat and is famous for its rock-climbing.

Koh Racha Yai and Noi can be seen from the southern end of Phuket as they lie just 20kms offshore. They are still delightfully undeveloped for the most part, and only Racha Yai offers accommodation. There are two beaches on Racha Yai, one deep and one shallow – but both lovely. Racha Noi has just one tiny beach with the rest of the shoreline being rocky; however, the waters surrounding it are nice enough to be used for diving. Koh Khai is just a 20-minute sail from the eastern shore of Phuket and is a tiny island with coral and white sands. This is a great place for snorkelling on a daytrip.

Where ever you choose to go, you are sure to enjoy a day sailing trip from Phuket.

Visitors’ guide to Phuket