Rafting the Mae Tang can be a hair raising experience but it’s certain to be one of the most exciting things you do in Thailand.

It’s been raining cats and Buddhas for the past three days, but today the sun is already beating down on us and it’s only 10am. But it isn’t enough sun to dry out the severe mud ruts that this old Landrover is busy grinding its way through as we patiently negotiate our way up the Mae Tang river. To our left the gorge falls away steeply, carpeted in lush jungle, and at the bottom we catch glimpse of a ferocious river that tumbles out of the mountains of Northern Thailand.

“Are you sure you want to do this?” my companion asks sceptically.

“Dunno, but the jungle up here sure is pretty” I meekly respond, trying to change the topic. It took me half a day to persuade her to come whitewater rafting and then the floods came down from the mountains and left Chiang Mai under a foot of water. But our guide, Jason, assured us that he never rafts an angry river and that our patience would pay off. The waters of Typhoon Damrey are now down in the valley he explains and the river has dropped to a safe level. To prove his point, we stopped at one point nearer the river and we inspected the rocks.

“See this boulder here” he points out, “when this is above the water level, it’s safe to raft this river”. He’s internationally trained in swift water rescue so we take his word for it. But the sight of the whitewater and sheer force of the grade five rapid he showed off to us has left butterflies in my stomach.

The awesome force of the recent floods have left an obvious calling card, and the banks are littered with forest debris and strewn with a destructive muddy mess several meters higher than the present level. It’s difficult to image a river more lively than this but clearly we are seeing it at in a tamer mood.

Up at the camp the river is more relaxed, and even after the traumatic preview we have not regrets about signing up for this adventure. Sop Kai is a charming little village situated on a flat part of the river, way up this snaking valley, and all around us the jungle sings with a mid morning chorus of nature as the water glistens and the sleepy community goes about its rural business.

We’re offered some snacks and fresh mountain coffee in the cool riverside bungalow of Siam River Adventures, and left to savour the wonderful experience of being up here in the mountains. This village is far away from the tourist traps and crowded temples. It’s all part of the day’s experience, Jason promised us. I’m tempted to ask if we can skip the rafting and simply go hiking up the banks of the river, it’s so lovely here. But that would be chickening out.

Before long he has us all kitted out and launches into a serious safety briefing and impromptu tutorial on how to react to an unruly raft. “Forward paddle! Back paddle! Lean left! Right! Get down!” he yells as we practice in the eddies of this impatient river. When it’s all over he offers us a reassuring; “ don’t worry, the guides will control the craft, just follow orders and you’ll be alright.” Before the safety briefing began he made a point of checking the swift water rescue gear and dispatching his staff to the most difficult rapids, so that they are ready to throw rescue ropes. He also points out that his is the only company on this river that has safety kayakers accompanying the raft to help rescue ‘floaters’, as he calls them. We feel just a little better now.

And, with little time to ponder what we are about to embark on, the guides push us into the main current and the camp disappears immediately as gravity tugs violently at us. That initial experience of sudden unstoppable momentum is perhaps the most impressionable memory as your adrenalin gets hold of your heart. You have little chance to concentrate on anything other than the rapidly approaching water immediately in front of your craft. It’s too late to turn back now but one certain thought that screams at your sense of logic is; ‘Oh my god, what have I got myself into!’

Within minutes we hit the first major rapids. Thunderous water sound a warning, my heart rate increases even more, and then we are on top of it. “Whooooaaah” we scream as the raft plunges headlong into the grade four rapid. The acceleration is scary, and with an exhilarating rush we splash through the bottom as our raft buckles and is thrown around. A sheer adrenalin high turns to relief as we coast out the other side and enjoy a breather on a tamer stretch.

But not for long, the gradient steepens again, we bumble over some smaller rapids and continue forward, without any respite or braking.

“OK, everybody ready” our guide shouts. “lean left! Left, left, left ” he yells desperately as we all try to avoid our craft being sucked into the wrong side of an even larger rapid. “Backpaddle!” He yells even louder, as he tries to steer the craft away from the insistent draft. A big pile of debris has split the rapid, the right side definitely looks dangerous. Everything happens quickly, we’re panicking now, but instinct takes over, water pours into the right side, miraculously we narrowly avoid the tough route and with one final strong paddle from the guide we plunge down the correct chute. Chiang Mai for adventurers

My god, this is pretty stressful, I think to myself as we emerge safely below. There is spontaneously laughter and cheering, relief turns fear into enjoyment, and in a nervous sort of way I find myself starting to really enjoy this.

“Well done” the guide tells us calmly, you have passed the tough first test, those were some of the toughest, it gets easier from here” he reassures us. And he’s true to his word. Just as I was beginning to loathe any more of this, we tumble down a series of fun small rapids that prove to us that rafting this river is exciting and enjoyable.

After 20 more minutes of tamer rapids, we all – as a team – seem to have the hang of this and soon we pull up into an eddy where we are reunited with the other rafts. “Time for a breather” our guide shouts, and we all loosen our protective helmets and life jackets. The road is just above us and a train of elephants trundle by with several tourists on board. Now that’s a far more sensible way to travel, I think to myself.

Before long we set out again for the most lively stretch of the river and unbeknown to us, a nasty surprise lies ahead. We hit the next rapid, a grade five with a name that sounds like something out of a violent Playstation game. This one is practically a small waterfall and as we hit the bottom the raft flips and into the water we all go. Pandemonium strikes. I recall seeing the swift water rescue guard standing on a nearby rock with safety rope ready but chaos reigns as I hold my breath and try, in a panic, to remember the safety advice. The water is keeping me under but I hold my breath and allow the water to ‘wash me out’ of the rapid. Sure enough I find myself downstream, surfacing and trying to gain control as the powerful river spirits me away. Luckily there are no further rapids and I manage to steer myself into an eddy. Fortunately everyone has recovered and we soon regroup and rescue the rafts. Chiang Mai outdoor activities

And so the day continues as we tackle one rapid after the other, interspersed with relaxing recoveries along tamer stretches of the river from where we can admire the wonderful forested gorge around us. A few more times we manage some hair raising escapes and the adrenalin rushes are addictive, leaving us nervously wishing for more. We have overcome our fears and eventually we approach the bottom of the stretch.

“Yeah! Bring it on baby” yells one of the people in our group and each time we plunge into another rapid the girls let out a loathing scream that soon turns to laughter. Even when it’s all over and we coast into the disembarkment camp we are all grinning from ear to ear, with scarcely any regret for signing up for the day’s adventure.

There’s only one task left to do, and that is to pose as a team in front of the rafts, paddles raised in victory – for we have tamed the mighty Mae Tang river.

One of the most popular activities for many visitors to Northern Thailand is a trek to one of the many hill tribe villages. Photos of these minority groups are regularly splashed all over tourist brochures and internet sites. Tour groups are a daily feature in some of the villages as visitors snoop around, buy a few handicrafts, take some photos and then leave.

Most of the hill tribes are subsistence farmers and have been marginalised by the Thai government. The government refuses to recognise their existence by providing ID cards or formal rights. The tourists who enter the villages rarely understand the problems they face and the harsh conditions forced upon them.

There are many different types of hill tribes in this region, and each has their own distinct language, dress and culture. The Akha tribe are considered to be the poorest group and as a result, they receive particular attention from missionaries, charity workers and anthropologists. They are known to the Thais as Egor, a derogatory name, and have one of the lowest status levels in the country.

They originated from Tibet over a century ago before migrating to Burma, Laos and Thailand, along with other hill tribes. The military regime in Burma has continually persecuted them over the last couple of decades, causing many of them to flee across the border into Thailand as refugees. Although some Akhas have lived here since childhood, they are still stateless and routinely exploited by drug lords and corrupt officials.

The Akhas use a language known as Lolo–Burmese however it has never been written down so there is no physically documented evidence of their history. They have relied upon information being passed by mouth from generation to generation. Today, civil rights activists have created a new system making it possible for their language to be written down.

The number of Akhas currently living in Thailand is thought to be over 50,000, with the majority of them located in villages in Chiang Rai province. Their villages are often in remote spots, making it difficult for them to travel, and can sometimes only be reached by treacherous dirt trails. They survive by subsistence farming, growing vegetables and rice on the sides of the mountains, and raising chickens and pigs.

The men can usually be found working in nearby rice and tobacco fields, starting first thing in the morning and continuing until sunset. They are paid on average 100 baht per day, which is well below the national minimum wage. Some of the villages still don’t have running water, meaning regular trips to the well to fill up large receptacles. A few villages have benefited from connections to mains electricity, which has drastically improved their living standards. Their simple houses are constructed from bamboo and grass and accommodate the entire family. Guide to Thai culture

The presence of missionary groups has introduced other problems of a religious nature. The assistance of these groups is often tied to conditions that they try to impose on the Akhas. Although some of them have been converted to Christianity, the methods of the missionaries have been questioned and it remains a controversial subject.

The missionaries say that they are able to help them achieve a better quality of life, but certain practises such as taking children out of their homes creates many doubters. The Akha religion is linked with animism, and they believe in a world filled with spirits, both good and bad. There is a constant erosion of their unique and interesting culture brought about by the actions of certain Christian groups.

Despite not having ID cards, some of the younger women have left their villages in search of work in the cities. Their lowly status and lack of paperwork has meant they have had to resort to prostitution or poorly paid massage jobs. Even worse, a number of the men are recruited by drug barons for smuggling across the Burmese border. A government crackdown on drugs in 2003 left more than 2,000 people dead, and many of them were thought to be Akha. Hill tribes of Thailand

The future of this hill tribe is uncertain as tourist numbers increase and the Thai authorities refuse to grant them citizenship. It’s hard to see how they can retain their unique culture with such a steady flow of voyeurs constantly knocking on their doors.

Like a big cosy duvet, mist shrouds the valley far below us. Away in the distance, a crowing cockerel gets the Hmong villagers out of bed, but the only other sound is the crunch of our bike tyres on the gravel track. With a soft click of gears, our group tackles a small incline but our attention is still riveted on the sweeping vista of forest immediately below us

Northern Thailand is a mountain bikers’ paradise. The prospect of spending a week in the saddle through some of Thailand’s most mountainous terrain left me with mixed feelings of exhilaration and exhaustion. Luckily, the Spice Roads’ tour is cleverly designed to take place over a leisurely nine days and somehow avoids the steep climbs but rewards the cyclist with some breathtaking back road routes between Chiang Mai and the Golden Triangle. Over the following week, we would meander through fruit orchards and careen down through lush rainforest. We splashed through delightful streams and crawled through caves, posed in front of unusual Shan temples and rode elephants. And we trekked to a Lahu village before finally coming upon on the escarpment of a wild frontier where the Shan State hills stretched far into the distance. But I’m getting a little ahead of myself here.

To the west of Chiang Mai loom the imposing Doi Pui and Suithep peaks, which act as a spiritual guardian for the city. They also provide a good indication of what the North has to offer mountain bikers and adventurers. And so we found ourselves way above the bustling tourist city, among the mist of the mountains and crisp morning chill. From Phuping Palace, near the summit, our group got to know each other as we gently climbed up through the pine trees heading for Baan Chiang Khian – a Hmong Village that enjoys unbeatable views of the Ping valley below. From here, the fun starts with a thrilling 20-kilometre off-road descent through the national park. There are a number of ‘fire’ roads that criss-cross this mountain, used regularly by the Hmong, and the one we take turns out to be a hair-raising experience – quite technical at times but suitable for anyone familiar with a mountain bike. The safety briefing at the start wasn’t overstated and eventually, buzzing with adrenalin, we emerge at the Huay Tong Tao reservoir in the valley. Not bad for a warm up!

Day two begins not on bikes but on a boat, as we are ferried to the far corner of the Mae Kuang reservoir north of Chiang Mai, and I’m intrigued by the prospect of being deposited on a far bank that no cars or motorbikes can reach. Today, we are told by our guide Woody, is mainly single track through forest as we head towards Chiang Dao. Adventure activities in Chiang Mai

“Mai pen rai, every year I get lost this part,” Woody mischievously explains as we plunge deeper into the sub-tropical growth, following tracks that are sometimes barely noticeable. This charade goes on for a couple of hours and we don’t care – riding a trail that hasn’t been used in ages adds to the sense of adventure. Eventually we pop out on to an asphalt road and follow it to Buatong waterfall, where lunch is waiting for us hungry cyclists. Northern Thailand is covered in gorgeous waterfalls but this particular one emerges from a spring and is covered in an unusual limestone deposit. From here, we hit the road, onwards to Mae Ngat dam before thankfully arriving at the Royal Ping Resort.

Every trip has its clowns, and the touring group you’re with always adds to the memory. For example, we have along with us a group of ever-polite Singaporeans who are so ridiculously kitted out that even NASA would be overwhelmed. They have shown up with every imaginable gadget, including GPS and two-way radios, heart rate monitors and cadence meters, enough portable tools to build a rocket launcher and their titanium full-suspension super-light bikes that cost more than the entire annual budget of some the villages we would be visiting. Of course, this was all proportionately opposite to their riding ability, but we were given a useful commentary of stats throughout the trip such as, “Altitude: 1440m la, bearing: 20, 52N, 98, 30E, wind speed…”.

On day two, as we entered the maze of single tracks, we were subjected to the likes of: “Ong Chee, ah, report position ovah,” squelch squelch, “OK roger that, ovah,” “We are approaching river with water in it, ovah,” along with periodic warnings like “Hole” and “Rut” and “Snake!”, which would echo down the line.

We set out early for Chiang Dao – a distinctive and isolated mountain about 80kms north of Chiang Mai, and the road to it meanders through a narrow cutting that is draped in morning mist with sheer rock faces looming on either side of the asphalt road. The caves at the base are a honeycomb of adventure and a 30-minute tour through the dark network is a welcome change from the saddle. Pressing on, we arrive in the small adjacent town in time for the Tuesday morning market, which gives us a fascinating glimpse into Northern Thailand country life. The colourful Lisu have come to town for the day, hawking their embroidery in a kaleidoscope of colour that matches our Lycra cycling gear. On display are some bizarre root remedies including one that promises to cure ‘all pocks and syphilitic eruptions around the neck’! Fruit is the mainstay of the economy in these parts and it becomes quite obvious as our route zigzagged for the rest of the day through undulating terrain covered in orchards.

After a night in which we had the entire Alpine-styled Chiang Dao Hills Resort to ourselves, we set out again on another nicely scheduled flat ride that skirts the massif of Doi Angkhang. This close to the Myanmar border, we observe a difference in cultural influences, most notably the multi-tiered roofs of the Shan’s Buddhist temples. It makes me feel like we have entered another country. Later in the afternoon, we finally approach the border town of Tha Ton, riding along dykes between irrigated fields, as we dead-reckon towards a giant Buddha on the hillside above the town.

Tha Ton is a tiny town that sits astride the Kok river as it enters Thailand through a gap in the adjacent hills. The following morning, we take to boats once more to negotiate the hilly terrain by way of river. It involves squeezing ourselves and bikes into these unstable boats, much to the bemusement of some loitering Kareni hill tribe folk who probably think we are absolutely crazy to be tackling this province by bike. Today we ride only 20kms. The route follows the river bank on a dirt road that passes several rural villages before arriving in Baan Ruammit — a hive of tourist activity with its elephant camp and handicraft shops. Bikes are now traded for elephants and the tour deviates from cycling to trekking. But 15 jolting minutes on the back of a lumbering elephant leaves me wishing I had never left my saddle. Before long, however, these stoic beasts are effortlessly trundling up steep unbikeable paths and I concede that cycling would’ve been a bad idea.

Within an hour, we come upon Baan Ya Fu — a Lahu village that will host us for the night. Here there is no electricity, no road access in the rainy season and few conveniences, yet the locals seem content and busy. Our usual four-star accommodation has been traded for a bamboo long house, short on comfort but rich in atmosphere. This tiny hamlet of 400 really is something to write home about. To the metronomic thud of a foot-driven mortar, we wander around the small lopsided village. There are kids following us around curiously, playful puppies tumbling in the dust, chickens aimlessly strutting around, and dogs and ducks keeping an eye on each other. An exhausted sow lies helpless as a clutch of hungry piglets attack her shrivelled udders. The locals regard us suspiciously, for the Lahu are one of the shyest of the hill tribes, and I can’t help thinking we have turned their village into a human zoo.

Day six starts with a trek down the hillside to Mae Sa waterfall, where we pick up a transfer to the base of Doi Mae Salong. Today we will tackle the first of the hills, with a bet to see who wimps out. Mae Salong is an interesting community of tea growers of Chinese descent. Their previous generation arrived here as Kuomintang exiles who were unable to reach Taiwan when they fled Mao’s communists in 1949. Apart from all the tea fields and obvious Chinese character, the town enjoys wonderful views — earning itself the description ‘Little Switzerland’. Fortunately, the climb is all on asphalt and the ordeal is over in less than two hours. We are rewarded with a fantastic panorama from the striking Wat Boromathat perched on a nearby hill.

By now we were craving more of the exhilarating downhill that whet our appetite on day one and right on cue we descend Doi Mae Salong on seldom-used dirt roads that pass through more hill tribe villages. It’s a deliberately short day because we are to stay at one of the area’s most luxurious resorts: Phu Chai Sai, with bungalows constructed entirely of bamboo and a sweeping restaurant area that commands excellent views. It’s ideal for relaxation in preparation for the final, and most demanding, day of the journey. Besides, by now we have covered more than 400kms and could do with a rest.

The final leg sets out on dirt roads and single track through some unusual karst scenery interspersed with rice paddies. But ahead of us, the imposing Doi Tung mountain has a 1000m ascent. Doi Tung is the northernmost elevated position in the country and was the scene of some cross border spats with the Burmese in 2002. It also attracts plenty of Thai tourists to the flower gardens developed by the late Princess Mother who had a winter home here.

With trepidation, we tackle the steep inclines to reach the revered temple at the summit, which apparently houses a clavicle bone of the Lord Buddha. When you’re moving at 5kph with a seemingly endless climb around each corner you have plenty of time to question why you volunteered for this madness. But the sense of achievement and satisfaction of summitting unaided is fantastic when you see the views. To the southeast is the whole Chiang Rai valley. After a further short climb, we are humbled by the stretching expanse of Myanmar to the north. With scarcely a sign of human habitation anywhere, we feel like we have reached the edge of a frontier. In fact, the very edge. The road we are on demarcates the border as we pass both Thai and Burmese checkpoints facing-off metres apart. Spotting some tempting single track to my left, I feel the urge to take a sudden dive down the hillside into Myanmar.

Instead we descend on some hairy switchbacks before coasting into the dusty frontier town of Mae Sai – popular with visa runners, gamblers and porn VCD shoppers. No one is interested in hopping over the border and we are eager to press on to the Golden Triangle. And so we follow a single track along the banks of the Ruak river until we eventually reach the mighty Maekong and the end of our journey. Exhausted after 500kms, we all pose under the famous ‘Golden Triangle’ sign in the little tourist town of Sop Ruak. Behind us is the distinctive sandbar that indicates the point where three countries meet – the symbolic centre of an area once famous for opium production and smuggling. All there is left to see now is a couple of museums, tacky souvenir shops and the interesting historic town of Chiang Saen, 10kms south. But we’re all done with touring and collapse into the minivans for the easy route back to Chiang Mai.

Many visitors come to Thailand to fulfil their imagination. They come to stuff their mental photo album full of impressions and memories. Perhaps they go home with exotic images of glistening temples and ancient chedis, or the unusual odours of a bustling food market and incense soaked shrines. It could be a heart-melting Thai smile or a breathtaking coastal vista – whatever your adventure here it’s almost impossible to leave Thailand without, at least, something to think about.

But, I left with nothing. Well, not entirely nothing, but certainly very little in the way of memories. And if I had, then surely I would’ve failed in my endeavour. While others were out toting cameras and riding elephants I was seated perfectly still. As they tucked into sumptious Thai curries I fasted, and while they amused themselves with go go bars and cultural performances I stared blankly into the recesses of my mind – spring cleaning it with an imaginary feather duster that took every inch of my discipline to wield.

Entering a temple for a meditation retreat is an increasingly popular activity among foreigners to Thailand, and several temples across the country have developed programmes specifically for English speaking practitioners. And so I came to spend a week confined to a small kuti (hut), eating a single meal per day and meditating for up-to ten hours each day. Believe me, it wasn’t easy or relaxing.

“Your entire focus should remain on your breathing” the Ajarn (instructor) told us on our first day, “not just the intake of air but the actual point it enters you nose, so that you feel the draft on your nose hairs, that is the only thing in the whole world you should be aware of”. With that in mind we were left to get on with it. There was no further instruction or team work exercises, for the teachings of this particular monk were both simple and subtle. “Breath in slowly on a count of three. Pause for two counts. Breath out on the count of three. Pause for two counts. Breath in on the count of three…” and so it went on. If this was the way to some enlightenment or revelation then I had better find a lot more patience.

In hindsight I came to understand his wisdom, for meditation involves very little in the way of action. There are methods, yes, but the essence of many them is quite simple – to empty your mind or keep it focused on a single thought. Of course I hadn’t found that insight just yet and so I followed the instructions, somewhat bewildered and frustrated. We had all been given a quick tutorial on how to sit comfortably, for it is important to be comfortable in the lotus position if you are to spend ten hours of the day wrapped up like a human piece of origami, but most of us appeared to struggle immediately with numbed legs and aching backs. Herein lay another hidden lesson that Ajarn was later to reveal to us, but for the time being we suffered.

Suffering, he taught us on day two, was part of human nature. It was the first of four noble truths taught by the Buddha. That was the second day’s lesson. I hadn’t slept well on the hard wooden floor of the kuti and certainly wasn’t feeling comfortable or relaxed, but I guess I wasn’t exactly here on vacation. Ajarn had politely enquired after our thoughts on how day one had gone, but it was brief and so was lesson. Back to the meditating. “It is perfectly normal for thoughts to enter your mind while you are meditating. This is human nature” he said in a droll, matter-of-fact voice “the objective is to catch those thoughts before your imagination and mind do something with them. Softly let them go and return to a state of emptiness.” Guide to Thai Buddhism

But day one hadn’t been quite that easy. Thinking back, for remembering what I was experiencing at the time wasn’t exactly encouraged, the first few days were certainly the toughest. Within 10 minutes I wanted to give up. I became restless and uncomfortable. Thoughts of my real life, out ‘there’ somewhere, kept jumping into my mind – excitement of a strange and unusual place full of new sights, smells and sounds. Of course it’s nearly impossible to suddenly sit down for an hour at a time staring at your navel when you’ve never done this before. I took a break after 10 minutes. Ten minutes became fifteen. Then more breaks, sitting silently while around me in the small temple where others sitting motionless and oblivious to me as they too ‘wound down’ the clock.

It wasn’t long before my mind began to become philosophical I guess. I thought about how fast paced our lives are and how obvious it becomes when you can’t even get through ten minutes of nothingness. By the end of the day I was suffering some pretty strong emotions. I was already dreaming up excuses and lies on how to make an early exit from the retreat without losing face. At the end of the session no one spoke to each other, as you would on a conventional camp, for that would simply ‘fill your mind with garbage’ as one of the junior monks had aptly put it. It was a lonely task. There was no ‘break out’ relief, just the dull anti-climax of returning silently to the rock hard floor of my claustrophobic 8 square feet kuti in the forest.

So why would anyone put themselves through this unpleasant ordeal. The answer to this would take a few days yet to arrive, and by now I was counting hours in boredom – there were still five whole days left of this. But the first glimpse of appreciation is the moring meal you take after the abbot and monks have helped themselves. There is a heircarchy here and women eat last, it’s nothing personal but Buddhist establishments are strictly traditional. I’ve never been an avid vegetarian but this simple food never tasted so good. When you’re seated and inactive all day your apetite fades anyway. After breakfast we each had an assigned chore and herein lies another meditation lesson.

“Like this” the junior monk shows me kindly, with a genuine smile. He demonstrates the sweeping motion of the broom. I notice his meditative focus, the way he deliberates on the patch of leaves beneath him, and I start to understand the concentration he places on the steady movement of the handle and the small perfect path it leaves on the ground. I realise that my mind had been on rock music as I absently swished away. Later, in a moment of further contemplation I realised that his smile wasn’t a deliberate act of friendship to gain my interest, but a concerted effort of focus to keep positive and happy and it reminded me of the grinning face of the Dalai Lama on the cover of his books. Then I realised that this too was a distraction of thought and I returned my attention to the leaves. Now I was beginning to get it.

Day three and I was beginning to get used to the endless hours of sitting motionless. Everything improves with practice and so it was that I could now shut out everything from my thoughts for long periods. My existence had become boring, my outside world forgotten and now I was beginning to feel the benefit of meditation. Ajarn now began to unravel his cryptic lessons, as if it was all methodically planned. He explained that our minds are endlessly challenged by the influence of thoughts. They arise from the experiences around us and we find ourselves thinking about anything but the present moment.

Ah, ‘the present moment’. Now there’s a key element of meditation. In my ‘pre-retreat’ interest I had taken the time to read up about Buddhist meditation and ‘living in the present moment’ seemed to be a central theme. Ajarn was right of course. We spend our lives deaydreaming on memories or future wishes and we fail to concentrate fully on what we are presently doing. We make mistakes, forget things, say and do wrongly to those around us. His morning lecture – as we sat at his feet like kindergarten children – was certainly astute. He let us with the thought of ‘remaining mindful at all times’.

And so the days ticked by, with mindfulness uppermost in our minds, so that we had little room for anything else going on around us. Soon we were to even learn walking meditation as a tool for the Vippasana Buddhist meditation techniques we were practicing. So mindful were we, that we end up spending long periods simply concentrating on our walking, each movement of the feet, the feeling of grass against our soles, the pace of movement – counted out in fours – and above all, an empty mind focused on a single present movement.

If I had expected some kind of peaceful, friendly, relaxing course, then I was wrong. Getting through the week wasn’t easy but I succeeded where several others failed. Every day another of the kutis around me became empty as others gave in and left early. Others, I came to learn, spent a whole month there. The cost was minimal, just a small donation, but the basic facilities were clean and hygienic. All I arrived with was two sets of lose white cotton clothes and some toiletries.

Finally, by the fifth and sixth day I was achieving almost 10 hours of proper meditation, mixing the various techniques we had been taught. All monks arise at 4am to begin, and so it was with us. Sitting silently in your kuti meditating in the dark takes a little courage and discipline but by sunrise you certainly feel like you have achieved something. After breakfast the walking meditation would help us get focused, then there would be seated meditation and maybe group meditation and chanting in the evenings, using the mantras we had been taught. Of course, along the way we learnt some valuable lessons in Buddhism to help understand the nature of human emotions, but never did the religion encroach on our own personal beliefs. Even when we returned to our beds we were encouraged to meditate on our every movements. And so, gradually, we descended deeper into an understanding of our true selves, my emotions became more settled and any fear, anxiety or negativity I had brought with me seemed to fade. Thai culture guide

On a bright sunny morning, after a final chat with Ajarn, I checked out. There was nothing ceremonious about it. Together with four others we silently filed out of the temple grounds and into a waiting mini-bus. We spoke little – I for one was cherishing the noticeably peaceful demeanor – and took away with us a unique and rewarding experience. I recall the lovely silence in the temple, the sense of space and expanse of lawn. The was the large Bodhi tree and simple forest temple, clearly designed for low key practical use. I noticed all these things now, there was time for this as I had little else on my mind. At last I felt I could really see. And despite the tough challenge of spending a week on a meditation retreat I really had no regrets I had done this.

Nothing beats mother nature for design and waterfalls are some of the loveliest examples of how mountains, water and gravity can combine to produce some breathtaking sights. Northern Thailand certainly has the mountains, and plenty of water, which together produce some of the country’s loveliest waterfalls. In fact there are so many to get to that you’re spoilt for choice.

Within an hour’s drive of Chiang Mai are more than a dozen large falls and countless smaller waterfalls that provide fantastic photo opportunities, and great picnic spots which attracts crowd of locals who love to frolic in the waters and enjoy an impromptu meal againsts a gorgeous backdrop. Chiang Mai top attractions

We’ve picked out 10 of the best, some easy to find, others a well kept secret.

Waterfalls of Chiang Mai

Huay Kaew falls
Perhaps the easiest to get to from Chiang Mai city, conveniently located at the foot of Doi Suithep, just above the zoo. This waterfall not only has a sizeable plunge but then cascades over a 50m rock slope which is good for cooling off or picnicking. It’s free and popular with locals on weekends. There are also several restaurants overlooking the rock cascade.

Monthathal falls
Slightly further up the hill, this falls is on the same river and has several much higher tiers but visitors will have to pay the 200 baht national park entrance. It’s a shame for this discourages many from visiting the lovely camp grounds and picnic spot at its base. A short climb takes you to the second level, but if you’re fit you can climb up to the third and higher drop or press on up the trail a further 40 minutes to a second, pretty little falls hidden in the forest and seldom visited.

Mae Sa waterfalls
The largest and most spectacular series of waterfalls in the Chiang Mai area, This multi-tier complex tumbles over no less than 10 levels, some of them small and private near the top while others are large chutes of water that look great from the lookout point near the car park. The locals love this one and parts get crowded on weekends, but it’s reasonably safe and ideal for playful kids, certainly worth visiting on a trip to the popular Ma Sae valley area. The 200 baht entrance ticket is good for other national parks waterfalls in the area on the same day.

Tad Mork falls
A right side turn off on the way to Mae Sa follows a pretty valley for 10kms and is worth the drive before arriving at this low-key falls that has an impressive 15m curtain of water. Further up is a smaller, more private falls that is free. There is a nice picnic spot along the way and a puvlic lunch menu is offered at the stunning Sukantara resort which has its own private cascade.

Mok Fa falls
On the road to Pai it’s worth stopping off at this lofty falls, it’s about 40 minutes from Chiang Mai and although the national parks charge a 200 baht entrance fee, the main falls is quite impressive in the rainy season. If you don’t already have a ticket from the others then it might seem a bit disappointing to pay for this one.

Sri Sang Wang falls
There are several in Northern Thailand by this name but we’ve singled out this well kept secret for its fun 8m water slide which has a plunge pool jut deep enough to make this safe and fun. There’s only one problem, it’s tucked away on the south side of Doi Pui mountain and only accessible by mountain biking down the trail that starts in the Baan Doi Pui tourist hilltribe village, or by hiking up from the park entrance found on the Samoeng road (south). It does have a second very high tier below the slide which can be dangerous as there are no safe view points to stand at.

Bua Thong falls
This is one of the lesser visited falls in the area but included on tours for its unusual limestone face which is arranged in convenient steps and safe to climb with it’s firm gripping rock. The water comes directly from a spring above the falls and cascades over the brown sandstone bolders to produce an unusual appearance. These falls are located on the road North to Phrae about 40kms from Chiang Mai.

Doi Inthanon waterfalls – Chiang Mai
Doi Inthanon National Park is one of the country’s best and apart from boasting the highest point in Thailand and a couple of regal chedis near the summit, it has lush vegetation and multiple eco-systems, a camp ground with chalets to rent and several fantastic waterfalls. The park is an hour’s drive south of Chiang Mai.

Mae Klang falls
Of the four magnificent waterfalls easily accessible in Doi Inthanon National Park, this is the first and easiest to get to. Located at the bottom of the hill, it has a massive cascade and the lower sections are usually jam packed with Thai families on weekends frolicking in the water pools. A 200 baht entrance applies which gets you into the others. There are usually as many food vendors as there are visitors here.

Mae Ya falls
Also at the bottom of the mountain but remotely located (by following a 10km road turning left almost immediately after turning off the main highway) this is by far the most spectacular of all the waterfalls near Chiang Mai. The main falls is about 40 meters high and 10 meters wide with a viewpoint right beneath it, but thereafter the abundant water continues down a gentle slope that adds to its dramatic appearance. Plenty of food and drink is available on site.

Vachiritan falls
Located halfway up Doi Inthanon, this falls has a lofty curtain of water as a backdrop for some nice picnic spots and swimming pools. You can park at the top or bottom, the latter having the best picnic spots and the food vendors. It also gets rather busy on a hot summer’s day.

Koh Samui has emerged to become one of Thailand’s top travel destinations. The island offers some truly wonderful attractions and has some of the country’s most breathtaking natural areas. Comprised of waterfalls, forested areas lined with mangrove and lush vegetation and gorgeous beaches, Koh Samui is a natural paradise.

This child-friendly destination holds a wealth of attractions geared towards little ones. Whether the kids frolic in the crystal clear waters of the Andaman Sea or feed the monkeys at the national marine park, they won’t run out of things to do on Koh Samui.

Elephant trekking
What kid doesn’t love elephants? A ride on these gentle giants can prove to be the highlight of any trip. On an elephant trek, children can sit back and see the island’s interior from amazing heights (for children anyway) and enjoy the ride. A typical trek last for about 30 minutes, but longer trips can be arranged. There are elephant trekking venues located throughout the island which are very reasonably priced. Activities and sports on Samui

Sports
Junior golf enthusiasts can try their hand at Treasure Island Mini Golf. This pirate themed mini golf course makes for a perfect outing for the entire family. Situated just a stone’s throw from the Beach road, the venue offers nine and 18 hole courses and is ideal for kids. Phone: +66 77 41 3267.

A slightly messier sport is paint ball. Samui Paintball is located in close proximity to the Samui International Hospital in Chaweng and is another spot that makes for a wonderful time for the whole family. Phone: +66 77 42 2538.

Extreme sports
For a more adrenaline-filled day, there are a number of activities that will excite the young and young at heart. For the truly brave, bungee jumping is an adventure sport that has become extremely popular in Koh Samui. One of the top jumping sites is Jungle Bungy Catapult on Lamai beach. This activity will satisfy thrill-seekers and also makes for great photo opportunities. However, this sport is geared towards older kids. Phone: +66 8 91 3314.

Another action-filled sport that both younger and older children can participate in is go-kart racing. There is a wonderful racing course called Samui Go-Kart, which is situated just off the 4169 Ring road west of Bo Put village. Phone: +66 7 72 45041.

Jungles and waterfalls
The opportunity to explore the jungles or play near a thunderous waterfall is a dream come true for most children. The Hin Lad Waterfall offers a jungle walk along its picturesque path and also has one of the most beautiful waterfalls on Koh Samui.

Ang Tong National Marine Park
Just a 45-minute drive from Koh Samui is Ang Tong National Marine Park. The park is comprised of over 40 tiny islands and offers visitors wonderful white sand beaches and hidden lagoons. The park makes for a perfect daytrip for the entire family and gives kids an opportunity to run wild and explore an unspoilt island. More on Ang Thong Archipelago

Monkeys, butterflies and reptiles
On Samui, gibbons are everywhere and primarily for working purposes. For centuries, local monkeys have been used for climbing the trees to pick ripe nuts on coconut plantations. Now, with tourism on the rise, many of the monkeys have hung up their coconuts bags and now entertain visitors with their cuteness and dexterity. There is a fantastic theatre on the main road behind and between Chaweng and Bo Put village.

For those who prefer to visit more menacing creatures while visiting Koh Samui, head to the Samui snake or crocodile farms. These farms delight and spook children at the same time with their snakes, crocodiles, killer scorpions and creepy spiders.

There is also a spectacular butterfly farm on the island offering a wonderful way to see these beautiful insects in their natural habitat. The Samui Butterfly Garden is situated near Laem Natien and is home to hundreds of butterfly species. A trip to the butterfly farm is a definite ‘must-do’ if you have children. Phone: +66 77 418 367.

The Playroom
The Playroom is situated on South Chaweng beach road and is undeniably one of the most exciting places for kids and video game junkies. The Playroom offers a vast number of toys and the latest games. Phone: +66 77 230 626.

Fancy joining the world’s biggest water fight? Your timing’s perfect, visitors to Thailand during April will have a chance to get involved with the famous Songkran Festival. All across Thailand for four straight days you’re going to get wet, but you’ll have a lot of fun.

Celebrated annually with great gusto and, oh yes, a lot of water, Songkran is the highlight of the Thai festival calendar. It’s an event all children and those young at heart look forward to as the country takes a break from the hot season. Everything grinds to a halt as city centres and villages across the Kingdom relieve themselves with a refreshing splash.

Areas like Bangkok’s Khao San Road, Chiang Mai’s moat, Pattaya’s Walking street and Patong central in Phuket descend into a chaos of ‘friendly fire’ – from water pistols that is – as crowds gravitate towards the fun. Others resolutely avoid them, and if you lack a sense of humour and fun, or would rather not ruin your hairdo, you’re better off retreating to a spa or your hotel room for the duration.

What the rest can expect is an exhausting but riotous few days of mayhem where everyone and everything is a target for a drenching. And with temperatures soaring into the 40s (Celsius) you won’t mind having a bucket of ice cold water dumped on you. Some streets are closed to traffic and are crowded with locals and foreigners alike whose only aim is to get everyone else wet. They use buckets, hoses, small pails, water pistols, cannons and all sorts of paraphernalia on sale. Most restaurants and businesses located in the thick of it provide large drums of water supplies, often laced with blocks of ice, and there are specially installed taps on hand to fill up your weapon of choice.

But there is far more to Songkran than just drenching others. Its roots in tradition mean there are a host of activities for all, including parades, pageants, sand castle building competitions, religious ceremonies and the all important lustrating of the Buddha. This is pious part of the festival when an important Buddha statue is paraded through each town for lay Buddhists to pour ‘religious water’ on. Wrap your camera up well in plastic covering and you will capture some wonderful moments of the Thai concept of fun, known as ‘Sanook’.

Songkran is in fact a time for Thais to visit their home villages, spend time with the family, enjoy hearty meals and help spring clean the house. Many will make house calls to visitors and present hampers to the elderly of the village. What started out as a beckoning of the rainy season with a gentle tipping of some water onto the shoulders of others has turned into a typically Thai celebration of fun. And even among all the chaotic splashing you’ll still experience old ladies coming up to you and softly tipping water from a pewter cup onto your shoulder.

And it’s not all a wet affair, it is possible to observe from the sidelines or to find quieter temple grounds where kids activities are taking place. However, if you want to go anywhere be prepared for a spoiling as someone defies your polite requests and drenches you anyway. Keep spare clothes in a waterproof bag, and put your phone and money in a ziplock. There are no rules during Songkran

That brings us to another point. Take care. With so many people enjoying themselves they tend to get carried away. Thais seldom let responsibility get in the way of fun, and there can be drunken and disorderly people about. Accidents are higher than usual, especially when kids line busy roads throwing buckets full of water at passing motorbikes. Use a car and you might find yourself stuck in congestion. Others fail to notice you might have a camera in your hand and cover you in water.

We suggest getting out for the first or second of the official days (12 and 13 April) when enthusiasm is at its best, by day three many have had enough and deserted the party, but there’s still plenty of water throwing about so plan your itinerary carefully. Travelling between the 11th and 20th of April is going to be congested, so book your flights, buses or trains now. There is also likely to be higher incidents of road accidents on each weekend buffering this festival, so drive with caution or preferably not at all. All businesses, except tourist related, will be closed. Fortunately, the splashing ends at dusk and you can move about freely.

Where to join the fun:

Chiang Mai: is considered the best place in Thailand to experience Songkran since its moat around the old city provides the ideal venue, with plenty of water. This historic town is popular with Thais and it fills up, so arrive early. Thapae Gate is the busiest but all around the moat you’ll find a great atmosphere. All roads leading there are usually congested. There is also a huge party held outside the Kad Suan Kaew Mall nearby the Northwest corner of the moat.

Bangkok: actually empties out during Songkran as many go back to their family homes, which makes it more pleasant and less congested. The pedestrianised Khao San Road near the Grand Palace is the place to be, it’s complete mayhem but the atmosphere is great. Alternatively head to Siam Square or parts of Sukhumwit road such Soi Nana. Silom road is also lively. Bangkok’s best festivals

Phuket: the Thais all celebrate in their adminstrative centre, Phuket Town, and the town’s central streets are full of local revellers. But tourists won’t escape the fun if they remain in Patong or Karon. Patong is perhaps the best place to be, centred on Bang La road. At resorts in the quieter areas like Bang Tao, Surin or Kata Noi you might miss it entirely, but each hotel puts up a small ‘fight’ for the tourists.

Pattaya: all along beach road lining Pattaya bay, and the popular Walking Street at the southern end you’ll find the action. The particular atmopshere here includes all the bar girls as the open fronted beer bars down all the lanes are ideal for retreating for a beer and break in-between splashing those passing by. Look out for the ladyboys who just love an opportunity to show off their busty bodies!

Samui: Chaweng and Lamai beach centres, along their main roads, are where you can join the fun. The other beaches have no real nucleus so you’re better off catching a taxi to the heart of the action on the West coast. You can always escape to the beach if you’ve had enough. Guide to festivals on Samui

Krabi: there are two choices here, Ao Nang beachfront road and Krabi Town. The former is for the tourists and likely to be full of fun if you couldn’t be bothered commuting 20 minutes to the provincial capital where all the Thais are enjoying themselves. But sometimes it’s better to join the locals in their city centre, afterall they really do know how to have fun.

Locals advise:

1. Rent a tuk tuk for the day (they take their canopy off), pick up a drum of water, squeeze in a prowl around the action – it will be slow going   however and you’ll be a prime target for pedestrians with water guns.

2. Go solo by abandoning all plans, and carrying nothing but some money. Pick up a water gun at one of the road side vendors and drift from one location to the next. When you’ve hadd enough exit the action on foot to a point where you can safely catch a taxi home.

3. Wrap your valuables: such as cameras, mobiles and money in a plastic bag and keep it safe.
4. Mind your drink: it’s easy to get carried away, but lots of others will be drunk too, including those driving vehicles which share the roads with all the water fighters.

5. Have a sense of humour: all sense of protocol disappears and you can expect to be a target everywhere, wet or dry, ice water or tap water.
6. Choose you weapon wisely: there are vendors on the spot, the biggest ‘cannons’ are often impractical to carry, if you are going to be mobile choose one with a large reservoir. The pump action ‘stick’s are supposed to be banned, but will be on sale anyway. By the end of the day you might have lost your gun, they only cost $5-10.

Fancy joining the world’s biggest water fight? Your timing’s perfect, visitors to Thailand during April will have a chance to get involved with the famous Songkran Festival. All across Thailand for four straight days you’re going to get wet, but you’ll have a lot of fun.

Celebrated annually with great gusto and, oh yes, a lot of water, Songkran is the highlight of the Thai festival calendar. It’s an event all children and those young at heart look forward to as the country takes a break from the hot season. Everything grinds to a halt as city centres and villages across the Kingdom relieve themselves with a refreshing splash.

Areas like Bangkok’s Khao San Road, Chiang Mai’s moat, Pattaya’s Walking street and Patong central in Phuket descend into a chaos of ‘friendly fire’ – from water pistols that is – as crowds gravitate towards the fun. Others resolutely avoid them, and if you lack a sense of humour and fun, or would rather not ruin your hairdo, you’re better off retreating to a spa or your hotel room for the duration.

What the rest can expect is an exhausting but riotous few days of mayhem where everyone and everything is a target for a drenching. And with temperatures soaring into the 40s (Celsius) you won’t mind having a bucket of ice cold water dumped on you. Some streets are closed to traffic and are crowded with locals and foreigners alike whose only aim is to get everyone else wet. They use buckets, hoses, small pails, water pistols, cannons and all sorts of paraphernalia on sale. Most restaurants and businesses located in the thick of it provide large drums of water supplies, often laced with blocks of ice, and there are specially installed taps on hand to fill up your weapon of choice.

But there is far more to Songkran than just drenching others. Its roots in tradition mean there are a host of activities for all, including parades, pageants, sand castle building competitions, religious ceremonies and the all important lustrating of the Buddha. This is pious part of the festival when an important Buddha statue is paraded through each town for lay Buddhists to pour ‘religious water’ on. Wrap your camera up well in plastic covering and you will capture some wonderful moments of the Thai concept of fun, known as ‘Sanook’.

Songkran is in fact a time for Thais to visit their home villages, spend time with the family, enjoy hearty meals and help spring clean the house. Many will make house calls to visitors and present hampers to the elderly of the village. What started out as a beckoning of the rainy season with a gentle tipping of some water onto the shoulders of others has turned into a typically Thai celebration of fun. And even among all the chaotic splashing you’ll still experience old ladies coming up to you and softly tipping water from a pewter cup onto your shoulder.

And it’s not all a wet affair, it is possible to observe from the sidelines or to find quieter temple grounds where kids activities are taking place. However, if you want to go anywhere be prepared for a spoiling as someone defies your polite requests and drenches you anyway. Keep spare clothes in a waterproof bag, and put your phone and money in a ziplock. There are no rules during Songkran.

That brings us to another point. Take care. With so many people enjoying themselves they tend to get carried away. Thais seldom let responsibility get in the way of fun, and there can be drunken and disorderly people about. Accidents are higher than usual, especially when kids line busy roads throwing buckets full of water at passing motorbikes. Use a car and you might find yourself stuck in congestion. Others fail to notice you might have a camera in your hand and cover you in water.

We suggest getting out for the first or second of the official days (12 and 13 April) when enthusiasm is at its best, by day three many have had enough and deserted the party, but there’s still plenty of water throwing about so plan your itinerary carefully. Travelling between the 11th and 20th of April is going to be congested, so book your flights, buses or trains now. There is also likely to be higher incidents of road accidents on each weekend buffering this festival, so drive with caution or preferably not at all. All businesses, except tourist related, will be closed. Fortunately, the splashing ends at dusk and you can move about freely.

Where to join the fun:

Chiang Mai: is considered the best place in Thailand to experience Songkran since its moat around the old city provides the ideal venue, with plenty of water. This historic town is popular with Thais and it fills up, so arrive early. Thapae Gate is the busiest but all around the moat you’ll find a great atmosphere. All roads leading there are usually congested. There is also a huge party held outside the Kad Suan Kaew Mall nearby the Northwest corner of the moat. Chiang Mai events

Bangkok: actually empties out during Songkran as many go back to their family homes, which makes it more pleasant and less congested. The pedestrianised Khao San Road near the Grand Palace is the place to be, it’s complete mayhem but the atmosphere is great. Alternatively head to Siam Square or parts of Sukhumwit road such Soi Nana. Silom road is also lively.

Phuket: the Thais all celebrate in their adminstrative centre, Phuket Town, and the town’s central streets are full of local revellers. But tourists won’t escape the fun if they remain in Patong or Karon. Patong is perhaps the best place to be, centred on Bang La road. At resorts in the quieter areas like Bang Tao, Surin or Kata Noi you might miss it entirely, but each hotel puts up a small ‘fight’ for the tourists.

Pattaya: all along beach road lining Pattaya bay, and the popular Walking Street at the southern end you’ll find the action. The particular atmopshere here includes all the bar girls as the open fronted beer bars down all the lanes are ideal for retreating for a beer and break in-between splashing those passing by. Look out for the ladyboys who just love an opportunity to show off their busty bodies! Pattaya festivals

Samui: Chaweng and Lamai beach centres, along their main roads, are where you can join the fun. The other beaches have no real nucleus so you’re better off catching a taxi to the heart of the action on the West coast. You can always escape to the beach if you’ve had enough.

Krabi: there are two choices here, Ao Nang beachfront road and Krabi Town. The former is for the tourists and likely to be full of fun if you couldn’t be bothered commuting 20 minutes to the provincial capital where all the Thais are enjoying themselves. But sometimes it’s better to join the locals in their city centre, afterall they really do know how to have fun.

Locals advise:

1. Rent a tuk tuk for the day (they take their canopy off), pick up a drum of water, squeeze in a prowl around the action – it will be slow going however and you’ll be a prime target for pedestrians with water guns.

2. Go solo by abandoning all plans, and carrying nothing but some money. Pick up a water gun at one of the road side vendors and drift from one location to the next. When you’ve hadd enough exit the action on foot to a point where you can safely catch a taxi home.

3. Wrap your valuables: such as cameras, mobiles and money in a plastic bag and keep it safe.

4. Mind your drink: it’s easy to get carried away, but lots of others will be drunk too, including those driving vehicles which share the roads with all the water fighters.

5. Have a sense of humour: all sense of protocol disappears and you can expect to be a target everywhere, wet or dry, ice water or tap water.

6. Choose you weapon wisely: there are vendors on the spot, the biggest ‘cannons’ are often impractical to carry, if you are going to be mobile choose one with a large reservoir. The pump action ‘stick’s are supposed to be banned, but will be on sale anyway. By the end of the day you might have lost your gun, they only cost $5-10.

Samui’s beaches are the primary reason why so many visitors choose the second largest island in Thailand as a holiday destination. Before the 1970s, this unspoilt island and its astounding natural wealth were untouched by outside influences. Since the first tourists found their way here however, the island has been continuously built up and now offers all sorts of exciting activities away from the beach.

Every side of this almost circular shaped island has its own paradisiacal strand of white or golden sand accessorised with palm trees and calm waters. The balmy oceanic breezes heighten the sense of perfection, while the mysterious peak covering the centre of the island soars in stark contrast to the gently lapping waters below.

Add to these already glorious features the infrastructure that has gradually been built up to suit the diverse needs of a range of foreign tastes and Koh Samui is an island ready to accept visitors with the most varying idyllic visions of what an island getaway should be.

Each of the island’s beaches is quite different in style, character and what is has to offer tourists. Your senses will be hit with a burst of sounds, smells and sights upon arrival at one of the large, crowded centres of Chaweng or Lamai, where shopping and partying possibilities are endless. Samui’s beaches.

The quaint charm of Bo Phut or Mae Nam offer peaceful and picturesque respite to wind down and relax. At one moment it may seem like you are in the heart of Torremolinos, Spain, while the next in a secluded sanctuary, not unlike those beaches captured in the box office hit based on the Alex Garland novel The Beach.

If you are serious about getting out and seeing the sights on Koh Samui, you may want to consider hiring a motorbike. Although taxis are widely available, especially on the busier and bigger beaches, using a motorbike is often the most efficient and cost-effective mode of transport and it also gives you the freedom to go where you like for as long as you want. Some of the roads can be quite dangerous however, with gravel patches and potholes appearing as if by magic as well as sharp curves and steep hills so careful attention needs to be paid when driving.

Once you have figured out how you will travel, next you must decide what there is to see on Koh Samui that may interest you. As with most destinations in Thailand, wat, or temples, on Koh Samui give an interesting insight into the architecture and traditions of Buddhism, the country’s main religion.

Probably the most visited of the island’s temples is Wat Phra Yai, or Big Buddha Temple, with its enormous golden Buddha statue peering majestically out over the headland. Wat Ban Plai Leam is another interesting site, a recently constructed temples that was designed by a Thai artist who himself spent 3 years working on the fine details of the intricate ornamentation. If you read up on Samui history, you will undoubtedly come across the revered monk Lung Padaeng. His shrine and preserved body, still sitting in position for meditation, can be seen at Wat Khunaram on the island’s southern strip.

If you are feeling a little adventurous, a trip up the steep, winding roads of Ban Saket mountain is worth the slightly nerve racking journey. Not only will you be afforded spectacular views of the Samui seascape, but you will also find a curious trail of sculpted figures hidden away in a small valley – recreations of the dreams of an old Buddhist monk.

Among Thailand’s most comical natural sites are the rock formations called Hin Ta and Hin Yai. Visitors flock to the area to check out the rocks that over the years have been moulded to represent the male and female genital organs.

Driving around the island you will come across a number of villages that have managed to retain their old world charm throughout Samui’s period of rapid expansion. Most of these are located on the quieter southern strip. The Muslim fishing village of Laem Set is a picturesque little town and a visit here offers insight into the reserved, quiet lives of this community.

There are a number of beautiful waterfalls located in the mass of foliage that makes up Samui’s inner jungle. Na Mung is easily accessible, while Hin Lad falls are reached by a tiresome trek along a jungle path. During the months of the dry season, March through September, these waterfalls are dry but the trek still offers good nature spotting and physical exercise. The peaks of the mountain jungles offer spectacular views of the surrounding archipelagos and indeed of mainland Thailand.

Muay Thai boxing is the country’s national sport and can be seen in villages, towns and cities all over the country. Koh Samui is no different, and fierce and furious kick boxing matches are held almost daily in the large stadiums located on Chaweng and Lamai beaches. Matches take place in the evenings and are well worth the exorbitant ticket prices for serious entertainment, both inside and outside the boxing rink.

As is fitting for any seaside tourist destination, Koh Samui has a range of companies that take tourists to the best locations for some of the most exciting water activities. For an enchanting insight into a whole new world underneath the surface of the ocean, snorkelling and diving trips can be easily arranged from a number of travel agents across the island. Jet-skis can be hired and speed boats chartered off both Chaweng and Lamai beaches for exhilarant, high-speed exploration off the coast. Activities on Samui.

Kite surfing is another popular sport, with companies offering equipment hire and lessons for beginners. The fishermen on Samui have also learned a quick way to earn some cash. For a fee, these fishermen will provide boat transfers to the best fishing spots, lunch and a fun day out.

If you are the type that gets more of a thrill from on land adventure, then Koh Samui will not disappoint. Mountain biking in the wild interior is a great option for heart-stopping fun. Or take it to a further extreme and hire an off road motorbike for hours of wheel-spinning, dust-raising adventure.

Koh Samui is becoming more of a family orientated destination. Of course, building sand castles, collecting sea shells and playing among the tame waves could easily keep any small child occupied for an eternity. But for a fun day time outing, Koh Samui has a number of animal attractions including elephant back rides, a crocodile farm, an aquarium, a butterfly farm and a monkey theatre, the latter being a favourite for hilarious entertainment.

Shopping all across the Land of Smiles is a real treat, with prices in general far below those in most developed countries. Chaweng Beach is certainly the shopping hub of Koh Samui, with shops, stalls and boutiques filling every nook and cranny of available space. Between the vast array of restaurants and bars, there are shops and stalls whose merchants will use their perfectly practiced charm to entice you to buy anything from fake designer handbags to the best in authentic designer goods and traditional handicrafts. Lamai Beach is a close runner up to Chaweng in the way of shopping, while on some of the quieter beaches you will find some fantastic boutique stores with real character.

Many people not only want to be active on holiday, but they want to be productive too. Courses are available on many of the beaches across Samui, including in yoga, Thai massage, Muay Thai boxing, meditation, reiki and Thai cooking. Scuba diving is a popular sport on the island and PADI courses are on offer from a number of companies.

Koh Samui is part of the archipelago that includes Koh Pha Ngan and Koh Tao, two of the most popular island destinations in Thailand. Both islands can be reached by boat in a matter of hours from Samui. Koh Tao is renowned for some of the best dive sites in the Gulf of Thailand, while Koh Pha Ngan is not only the party capital of the south but a stunningly unspoilt island with many secluded beach sanctuaries off the main strip. The three islands and its surrounding waters are part of the Ang Thong National Marine Park and daytrips from Samui are available to some of the park’s most spectacular locations. Attractions on Samui

Krabi’s central location along the Andaman Sea in southern Thailand puts it right in the heart of one of the planet’s top 10 diving scenes. Thailand is an ideal place to learn to scuba dive, add a new certification to your PADI card or simply brush up on rusty skills. Apart from a friendly and colourful culture as well as truly amazing underwater scenery and marine life, the costs of learning to dive in Krabi are among the lowest in the world.

Thailand’s low diving prices don’t translate to poor service or unqualified dive instructors. In fact, many foreign dive masters are lured to the sunny islands of southern Thailand to spend a winter (or five) kicking back and teaching newcomers how to dive. An enthusiastic cadre of local Thai dive instructors and support staff round off the crews of the dozen or so dive companies that operate out of Krabi. Diving in Krabi

The remarkable variety of underwater terrain around Krabi is what makes this region so special. From the stunning psychedelic reefs of the Similans to fathomless headwalls, shipwrecks and gently sloping sandy coral gardens, there’s something here to please every level of diver, from newbies to jaded veterans. Krabi’s diving operators take full advantage of this wide range of environments to create a complete menu of diving courses.

At the beginning of the list is the PADI Bubblemaker Programme, designed to teach young children aged eight years and up the basics of scuba diving. This wonderful concept allows whole families to experience the magic of diving. Next up is a selection of half-day and full-day courses geared towards newbies 10 years and older. PADI Discover Scuba Diving is the precursor to becoming a fully certified diver. Diving basics are covered in a shallow pool at the dive shop, followed by one easy tandem dive with an instructor.

PADI Scuba Diver is the foundation level of certification, offering two days of in-depth dive training and two dives with an instructor. After completing this level, students can train for their PADI Open Water Diver certification. This is where the adventure of diving really begins, as it allows you to go on dives up to 18 metres deep. This is the most popular level of PADI certification and is recognised all over the world. Phi Phi guide

If you really fall in love with the thrill of scuba diving, you can take the Advanced Open Water course which covers five different underwater terrains and allows you to dive up to 30 metres. Additional certifications include Emergency First Response and Rescue Diver courses. If you want to step into the teacher’s fins, you can even take a full PADI Dive Master course. These run for several weeks and are only for the truly dedicated. The great thing about getting certified in Thailand is that even a Dive Master course costs just a fraction of what it does in most other countries.

In addition to the low costs of the courses, accommodation and food at the beaches are quite reasonable. Once you’re certified, you’ll find that the dives in Thailand are among the cheapest in the world. When you’re not underwater, the beauty of Krabi and the laid-back attitudes of the Thais will show you why so many people come to this region winter after winter. The prime diving season in the Andaman Sea around Krabi runs from November to April, although it’s possible to dive all year round. So, if you’ve always wanted to learn to scuba dive but were put off by the high costs of certification, Krabi offers the perfect solution.

Once qualified, or your upgrade course finished, the Andaman’s your oyster with more than two dozen excellent sites, some a mere 15 minutes offshore from Railay beach, others at among the breathtaking beauty of the Phi Phi islands. There are plenty more sites near Koh Lanta if you prefer avoiding the crowds, or you can venture as far as Phuket and beyond to the Similan islands. Sign up for day or night trips or spoil yourself with a live aboard cruise.

Dive sites near Phuket